We know you don’t need a reason to buy another indoor plant but there are those around you who do. We’ve might have heard ‘Don’t you have enough plants already?’ or ‘ANOTHER one? You’ve got enough!’
Well, we say ‘Never!’
And here’s our Top 10 Benefits of Indoor Plants to convince your friends and family that that new indoor plant baby needs to come home with you.
We currently have a big sale with 40% OFF all our Indoor plants, in-store only! Come see us at 1477 Sydney Road, Campbellfield!
Air purifiers
This isn’t an argument we haven’t heard before. In fact, NASA did an experiment in 1989, detailing how indoor plants clean the air of not only carbon dioxide but formaldehyde and benzene. Plants clean our air outside in the garden and in the wild, so it stands to reason that indoors they will do the same. There are, in fact, certain indoor plants that are particularly good at purifying your household air. These include Devils Ivy, Mother-in-law Tongue, Aloe Vera, and Spider Grass just to name a few!
Mood
There’s a reason why we feel better when we go outside in the garden. Plants are known to increase our mood and mental health, relaxing and enlightening us. When we can’t get out into the garden because of the wild winter weather, or maybe you just don’t have a backyard, bringing the wild indoors is the next best option. Whether it’s one little desk Cactus or a mini jungle in your living room, having plants indoors is sure to lift your mood.
Aesthetics
An obvious one but its benefits is often overlooked. Indoor plants are used in many industries to create a more aesthetic appeal to a room, whether it be in Real Estate to better sell a house, in restaurants to create a mood or vibe for patrons, or in your own home to welcome guests or relax and calm your own family! Their beauty, and sometimes bushiness, can cover or screen off unsightly areas, and make even the ugliest room beautiful. Environmental Conditions
Plants can create a mini-ecosystem inside your house by changing the environmental conditions. Having a few plants around can increase the humidity in an often dry environment caused by heating and cooling. Or having a well-placed plant near a sunny or hot window can cool down an otherwise hot room. In fact, many avid indoor plant collectors will testify that having many plants inside creates a cool and comfortable environment due to the regular watering and maintenance of their plants and from the plants breathing and cleaning the air.
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Therapeutic Hobby
These last 2 years more than ever have we seen gardening become a hobby of any customers. Indoor Plant sales have gone through the roof, giving those isolated at home a sense of companionship and sating their natural human need to nurture. We feel challenged, accomplished and prideful when we care for and learn from our plants. Singing and talking to your plants is proven to be both beneficial to you and your plants!
Lower Stress Quite often, what causes you stress is being in your own head, so there’s nothing like a good distraction to get you outta there! Focussing your energy on something peaceful like plant maintenance keeps you calm, attentive, and above all, busy! Your plant will enjoy the attention too.
Immune System
Yep, that’s right! Not only do they reduce stress and improve your mood, but they are also known to boost your immune system. So a study in Texas in 2002 tells us, they are even known to heal patients in hospitals faster. In conjunction with their calming qualities which have obvious health benefits, plants release phytoncides, which have antifungal and antibacterial qualities. These qualities assist plants to fight disease. However, when we breathe them in, it provokes our immune system into producing NK white blood cells, which kill viruses and tumour cells in our body. Gosh, they’re amazing!
Increase productivity
Keeping calm, focussed and with a positive outlook has been proven to increase your productivity – who knew! It stands to reason that if you’re not surrounded by distractions or placed in a depressing cube that constantly reminds you that you’re at work, you’re obviously more likely to be able to focus on your task at hand, improving your quality of work and productivity.
Allergies
With the stimulation of white blood cells boosting your immunity, cleaner air, and a relaxing environment giving you a calmer outlook, it’s no wonder that plants will also assist with fending off allergies. NASA is at it again, stating that plants draw in toxins via emitting water vapor, drawing it down into their roots and converting it into food. If your indoor plants are cared for properly they will reduce and remove pollen spores, mold, and dust, all of which can cause or irritate allergies.
Sleep Better Cleaner and fresher air will help you sleep much better. And a calmer, relaxing environment is sure to send you off to sleep peacefully. On the other hand, if you’re a follower of Feng Shui, you may want to reconsider a plant in the bedroom as they represent upward energy and growth while your energy is supposed to be going down and quiet. But for the rest of us, go nuts!
We currently have a big sale with 40% OFF all our Indoor plants, in-store only! Come see us at 1477 Sydney Road, Campbellfield!
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Let the cold weather begin! May brings the first frosts, cold nights and a blaze of Autumn colour and leaf fall from our deciduous trees and shrubs. There are lots of trees still bearing beautiful autumn foliage such as the Crimson Sentry Maples, London Plane trees and Golden Elms but by the end of the month, most deciduous trees will be completely bare and in their stark, sculptural winter form.
However, it’s not all grim for May as there are some beautiful flowers blooming and a lot of delicious fruit to harvest. Get some gardening gloves ready, as there are quite a lot of things to get done during this time, in preparation for the months to come.
With Mother’s Day right around the corner, come to the nursery and get some lovely plants to treat your mum and grandmother. We have a big range of indoor plants to brighten up the kitchen or living room, some fragrant flowers, flowering trees and so much more at very low prices! Or you can also get a gift voucher, which might be more convenient. These can be mailed by post or emailed and can be redeemed in-store or even online.
Forget the boring common bunches of flowers that everybody buys, and get something that will undoubtedly make mum happy for years to come! Here is a selection of the best fragrant and beautiful flowering plants that keep on giving!
• Camellias. Queens of the winter flowers, Camellias are attractive evergreen shrubs that are highly prized for the beauty of their exquisite blooms, their splendid evergreen foliage and their compact shapely habit.
On still, cold nights, frost forms on our lawns, windscreens and makes our early morning starts even more difficult, particularly getting out of bed!
In May, frost really only forms in regional areas and the very outer suburbs of Melbourne, where it gets cold enough to form ice. Conditions have to be still with no clouds, and temperatures that drop below freezing.
Cold air is heavier than warm, so frost stays low to the ground and often rolls downhill, pooling in low points or gullies. Hedges and fences can catch rolling frost down a slope, which can cause a rather frosty spot.
How does frost form?
Frost forms from water vapour in the air, coming in contact with an object that is below freezing temperature.
Frost on a fence in Trentham
So basically, when the moisture in the air touches a freezing cold windscreen, the moisture sticks to the windscreen and turns to ice!
When it comes to our plants, they expel energy continuously throughout the day and the night. Energy is warmth! During the day, their expelled energy is replaced by radiant heat from the sun, but at night time they become cooler as their warmth is not continually replaced. When the plant cools enough to get to freezing temperatures, frost can then form on its leaves.
Frosty autumn leaves in Trentham
You may notice under large trees there is little to no frost. Large trees shelter the plants and grass underneath. Their canopy radiates energy downward from the underside of their leaves, as these “breathe out”. This expulsion of energy keeps the area under the tree warmer for longer during the night. This is why planting your more frost-sensitive plants under trees and shelter can help protect them from frost.
Sun melting the frost, and the shade sheltering it
Some plants can handle frost better than others. The moisture inside of the plant’s cells freezes and like all frozen water expands it can cause stress on the cells and therefore damage the plant. When the ice is quickly thawed by the morning sun, it causes the most damage to the plant.
If your plants have been damaged by frost, don’t cut off the damaged foliage until the frosts have finished as this dead foliage will actually act as protection for future frosts.
How to tackle frost
Cover your frost-sensitive plants with sheets, newspaper or straw, making sure to remove it the following day.
Lightly water your plants before sunrise by a sprinkler system (or by hand if you’re really keen!) This can prevent frost from forming. You can lightly water frost affected plants, which gently thaws the ice, reducing the damage from the frost.
Use plastic sleeves and stakes to protect plants in open areas
Weeding
Arctotheca calendula Capeweed in flower
Weeds run rampant this time of year. You may have seen more and more popping up in the garden such as Bindii, Capeweed and the culinary Mustard weed.
Due to the increase in moisture from the autumn rains, the soil is loose, making weeds easier to pull out. As some of these weeds are just starting to appear it is always good to get them out while they’re young and their roots haven’t taken hold. If your weeds don’t have seeds on them, chuck them into your compost for added nitrogen!
Free plant nutrition in your autumn leaves!
Most of the leaves have fallen off the trees so we now have an abundance of free plant food!
Every year, hundreds of Victorians begrudgingly get out their rakes and green bins and begin to rake up those fallen leaves to toss out. But little do they know they are throwing away valuable material. Almost everything in the garden is recyclable and leaves are certainly no exception.
Wet autumn leaves in the Dandenong Ranges
Leaves naturally fall around trees, creating a soft, decomposing bed around the base of the tree, keeping the soil protected and warm as well as eventually breaking down and improving the soil. Trees are very clever and prepare their own soil!
In smaller gardens, fallen leaves should be removed to allow the lawn to grow (as leaf-littered lawns will die in patches) and prevent them from harbouring snails and slugs, as they love living in this moist environment.
Collect and store your autumn leaves for use throughout the year. It is best to try and compost or decompose your leaves from the beginning as dried leaves are a hot spot for earwigs to nest. These little pests usually help the decomposition process but they can also cause a lot of damage to your lush plants, much like snails and slugs! If you want to store them dry, store them in a sealed container so these pests can’t get in.
You can store your precious collected leaves in a large barrel, garden bin or even a garbage bag. Water them down to keep them moist and promote fungal growth, furthering the decomposition. If they’re stored in a large bin, layer them like you would your compost bin, with high nitrogen plants to replace the nitrogen the leaves have lost. (This would be a great use for all your pulled out weeds!)
Leaves can also be added to your compost if it is smelling bad from too much vegetable matter and this adds phosphate, potassium and other essential elements.
Leaves take 6-12 months to break down and become useful compost/mulch for your garden beds.
Bare Root is coming…
It’s almost time for BARE ROOTED FRUIT TREES and other wonderfully cheap deciduous trees! Winter marks the time for bare roots so it’s best to get your garden beds prepared.
Till your soil, create a loose, well-draining medium and make sure it is free from pests and diseases. Turn in any fallen autumn leaves and ready compost you may have so it can rest for the month before planting. Give the bed good watering to keep all your microorganisms happy and healthy!
If you haven’t done so already, get your citrus and evergreen fruit trees in the ground now. That’s all your lemons, limes and oranges as well as guavas like Feijoa, Chilean and Strawberry guava. Dig a hole twice the size of the pot and water the hole. Partly fill your new hole so that you can place the plant’s root ball into it so the top of the root ball is level with the top of the soil. Back-fill with a light, fluffy soil or well-composted soil, nothing too rich. Keep weeds and lawn away from the base of the tree as these plants have shallow roots and don’t want to compete for water and nutrients. Mulch around the base, keeping the mulch away from the trunk. This will keep the weeds away, and the soil warm and moist until the spring. Water once per week or as needed as even winter can be dry! Some fruits that you can harvest right now are persimmons, various citrus fruit, feijoas, raspberries and strawberries.
• Citrus plants. We have some nice big mature plants with fruit already on them! These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they were born to produce fruit, plus they are on Sale right now.
• Berries. Put in some delicious berries for that homegrown freshness.
• Various fruit. Here is a great selection of the most popular and rare dwarf varieties, ideal for small spaces. Some are in limited quantities, so better hurry up.
Not everyone is keen to be gardening in the cold of winter! You can simply grow some green manure crops and let them do their thing. When you chop and drop them right before Spring, they will decay and improve your soil nutrition and texture!
Late autumn-winter is bean and pea planting season. These wonderful, plentiful veggies are best planted now. They add nitrogen into an otherwise depleted veggie bed and provide an abundance of peas and beans at the same time! Two for one! At the end of the season, your veggie bed will be ready for your spring crop.
For a good green manure crop plant beans such as broad or fava bean, peas, oats, fenugreek, lupins, subterranean clover and woolly pod vetch. You can find them as green manure seed packs, sold by several companies across Australia.
Green manure crops, Chop and Drop
Other things to note…
Before planting Autumn and Winter veg, enrich your soil by top dressing with some compost and manure and let it settle for a week. If the soil is too hard from being baked by the summer heat, you can gently turn it over to incorporate some organic matter into it, which will make new crops grow better. If you have hard or clay soil you can also add some soil wetter to make water penetrate more easily and retain moisture.
Give new seedlings a good boost with an application of liquid fertiliser after a week and they will reward you later on.
Winter veggies to plant now!
Autumn and winter veggies that should either already be in the ground or need to be planted now are as follows:
-Greens such as silverbeet, leeks, celery, watercress, lettuce, rocket, and spring onion. -Herbs such as parsley, thyme, oregano, coriander etc -Asian greens such as Pak Choi, Kailan, Choi Sum -Brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussel sprouts. -Root veggies such as beetroot, turnip, radish, parsnip, onions, carrots and garlic. -Legumes such as sugar snap/Snow peas and broad beans.
Due to the frequent rain in Autumn, nutrients leach away from the soil. Nitrogen or Nitrates are the most common essential nutrients that leach away, along with other highly soluble minerals such as calcium. You may tend to notice discolouration or yellowing leaves on your plants.
Use slow-release fertilizers or seaweed solutions instead of traditional instant “NPK” ones. These take time to break down and give a steady supply of nutrients for a few months. Choosing the right fertilizer for the right plant is important as these contain trace elements that the specific plants require which are often scarce in normal soil.
Gardenias, Camelias and Azaleas can use some fertiliser right now as they are about to bloom!
Humid and cool conditions can cause a proliferation of pests and diseases in the garden. Identify them early, treat them, and keep your plants healthy all through Autumn and Winter.
Cabbage Butterflies and Moths are the most common at the end of Autumn. White Cabbage butterflies lay their eggs on our Brassicas, such as broccoli and cauliflower. Little green caterpillars hatch from these eggs and then get to work chewing holes through the plants. There are several ways to control them:
-Netting- You can protect your young crop by covering them with netting that would prevent the butterflies from reaching them.
-Companion plants- Plant some strong-smelling herbs such as lavender, sage, and rosemary that seem to discourage cabbage moths from settling and laying eggs. Try planting them around the edges of your patch to form an odour barrier. You can also plant decoy plants such as nasturtiums, dill, and mustard, which will draw egg layers away from your main crops.
–Using decoy ‘Scarecrows‘- Cabbage moths are highly territorial and will avoid laying eggs where there’s already competition for food. Use little decoys around brassicas to send them somewhere else. Here is a great little printable template that you can use. Click Here to see the template. This template was created by the Australian Butterfly Conservation.
– Dipel – An organic biological insecticide based on Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, which is an insecticide derived from beneficial bacteria found in soil, on plant surfaces and also in insects. It specifically targets caterpillars and is safe for beneficial insects such as ladybirds and bees.
Blackspot and Rust commonly affect Rose plants. If you notice any of those on your roses, you can cut them back lightly, remove the diseased leaves, spray the remaining leaves with some organic copper-based fungicide, and also fertilize them to encourage new growth and blooms.
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plant problems at this time of the year. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or grey powder-like substance. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants. A simple remedy is a good spray of the following mix: 1 tablespoon baking soda with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Another option is a mix of 1 part milk with 10 parts of water. If this natural remedy fails to get rid of it, you can look into Sulphur based fungicides.
Root rot and Wet Feet are the most damaging ailments our houseplants can suffer from, and one of the most common. An infection can destroy a plant literally from the ground up. It spreads quickly, and without prompt action, it’s soon too late. Roots of plants affected by root rot may turn from firm and white to black/brown and soft. Affected roots may also fall off the plant when touched. The leaves of affected plants may also wilt, become small or discoloured. Affected plants may also look stunted due to poor growth, develop cankers or ooze sap. Once root rot is identified, you must determine if the plant can be saved. If the entire root system has already become mushy, it is too late to save the plant. However, if some healthy, white, firm roots exist, try to bring the plant back to good health by replanting in fresh soil with good drainage.Click here to read more about wetfeet.
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In autumn many deciduous plants transform from their lush green summer coats to hues of yellow, red, purple and gold. These warm colours gracefully transition us from the warmth of summer to the cold of winter.
Many of us have gardens that are on the smaller side, and if you don’t have that much space for big trees, there are always alternatives like shrubs, bushes or even dwarf trees that are nice and compact and will fit any sized garden.
Nothing says autumn colour like Berberis! Small delicate green, purple or variegated leaves turn crimson, amber and gold as the temperature gets cooler. They make wonderful seasonal features and suit Cottage or Woodland garden styles.
Berberis grow a maximum of 2m high but can be kept all the way down to 50-70cm. Small birds love to hide amongst the branches!
A hardy, easy to grow evergreen garden favourite, the Nandina or Sacred Bamboo comes in a few varieties. The Dwarf and Moon Bay varieties are compact and colourful, only growing to 1m tall. Their foliage is lush lime green in the warmer months, turning a deep crimson as it gets colder.
Bright blooms with wiggly petals pop up in late autumn in the nursery, causing customers to exclaim “what is THAT plant?” That is the often understated Witch Hazel! This medicinal plant produces phenomenal autumn colour and a really weird but staggeringly beautiful and fragrant flower. A must-have for the autumn garden.
This fun plant isn’t on this list for its autumnal foliage (though it does produce a gorgeous yellow and amber glow!) The Beautyberry, or Callicarpa bodinieri, sprouts dazzling clusters of purple berries along the branches against the gold backdrop, creating an incredible contrast in colour! Beautyberry grows roughly 2 metres in height.
Oak-leaf Hydrangea
A small flowering shrub with leaves like that of an Oak tree. The Oak-leaf Hydrangea flowers during the spring and summer, its leaves turning crimson, carmine, amber, maroon and purple in the autumn. A truly versatile shrub.
There are Dogwood trees and Dogwood shrubs. The trees are renowned for their autumn colour and beautiful summer flowers, whereas some shrub varieties also have vibrant autumnal foliage, but the branches underneath are the real show stoppers. Seen in autumn and winter are gorgeous, almost fluorescent stems of red or yellow. These shrubs grow from 1-2m tall.
Varieties of Physocarpus or, commonly named, Ninebark come in beautiful purples, greens and golds, all of which convert to the rich colours of autumn when it begins to get cooler. The colours on the large leaves change from the edge inward making little artworks on each leaf. Suitable for pots and small gardens, growing anywhere between 1-3 metres tall.
A striking, small deciduous shrub that turns a rich purple and crimson red in autumn, the Viburnum opulus ‘Nana’ or European Cranberry Bush, grows only 30-60cm tall and compact. It is ideal for edging and borders, Cottage style gardens or pots! Unlike other viburnums, this one very rarely produces flowers or berries and hence requires far less maintenance.
Currants (Ribes)
The next two are not only colourful but produce delicious berries in the summertime. Ribes nigrum or the humble Black Currant turns gorgeous reds, oranges and yellows in the autumn time. Ribes grow approximately 1-2 metres tall and should be pruned during the winter when they’re bare.
Bearing delicious, juicy blueberries in the summer under lush green foliage, the Blueberry bush is often forgotten for its autumn colour. Small, soft leaves change to gorgeous autumn colours. Blueberries grow best in acidic soil, benefit from a good trim and grow anywhere between 1-3 metres depending on the variety. Since different varieties produce berries at slightly different times of the year, planting a few different ones will extent the harvest period.
Besides the gorgeous plants mentioned above, here are a few others that are worth including in this list.
Dwarf Maples
Dwarf Japanese maples are excellent choices for smaller gardens because of their small stature and ability to thrive in small spaces. Dwarf Japanese maples can be used in miniature conifer beds and rock gardens to provide dynamic contrast throughout the season. Dwarf Japanese maples can also be used in patio containers and bonsai.
A compact spreading deciduous shrub with stunning burning red foliage and ornamental berries.
Great as a feature plant or hedge that will add vibrant colour to your garden in autumn.
Plant in well-drained soil in a full sun to part shaded position. Approx growth 3mx3m. Frost and drought tolerant.
Spirea is a semi-deciduous shrub with arching stems, lanceolate small green leaves and gorgeous white pompom flowers from spring to late summer. The leaves will change to a yellowish red colour in autumn before falling off. It will grow in coastal gardens and once established will tolerate frost, neglect and drought. Mature growth 2x2m
Virginia Creeper is a large deciduous climber that is very vigorous. Its foliage turns a bright red and orange in autumn. Given the space, it will ultimately grow higher than 12 meters with a spread of 4-8 meters.
Virginia Creeper thrives in a position of moist, well-drained soil and can handle both full shade and full sunlight. This vine makes for a gorgeous sight. It is generally easy to care for and is disease-free.
Boston Ivy is a beautiful, classy small-leaved climber that is great for covering exposed or ugly walls, unattractive sheds, pergolas, arbours, rotundas, and trellises. The shiny green three lobed leaves turn spectacular shades of red and purple in autumn.
Hello Hello, dear gardening friends! April usually marks the unofficial beginning of Autumn and the beginning of the longest season of the Kulin nation; ‘Waring’ or Wombat season! Unlike autumn, which lasts from March-May, Waring lasts from April to July. It marks the beginning of misty mornings, low temperatures and higher rainfall. Days begin to get shorter and brilliant fungi start to appear. And how can we forget the stunning change of foliage colour amongst Melbourne’s gorgeous deciduous plants! All over the city, our giant trees are putting on a display of reds, oranges and yellows, their spent leaves colouring the footpaths and streets. Golden Elms and Ash are shining gold beacons, Scarlet Oaks and Maples produce vibrant lipstick reds and Japanese Maples start to really shine with varying colours, all on a single tree. This time of year is not only about colourful foliage. Camellia’s are beginning to flower, Native Violets are covered with upright purple flowers that the bees adore, Salvia’s and Gazania are continuing their summer flower display along with newly budding flowers of Pimeleas, Daisies and Alyssum.
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Garden Tips for April!
Preparing the Garden
Autumn is a very busy time of the year for gardeners. Soils still retain their summer warmth and become moist with more rainfall, making it a great time to plant and prepare garden beds. Free mulch literally falls from the sky with autumn leaves, which can be turned into the soil or compost, making your soil fluffy and rich, ready for planting. It is also a good time to turn in any aged compost and mulch, also to remove spent summer vegetables, to make space for your next crop. You may have already begun this process following our ‘March in the Garden’ article, but if you haven’t, you definitely need to get onto it now! It may not seem like it but this can take some time to do, but boy is it worth it.
What to Plant
Gardening is one of the best family activities!
Is your garden ready for some new planting? Let’s take a look at what can be planted this Autumn!
Deciduous trees are best planted in autumn. The soil needs to be soft, well-draining and have minimal nutrients in it. Make sure you haven’t added any extra fertilisers into the soil before you plant a deciduous tree or shrub as this can give it a rude awakening. Deciduous plants are going into dormancy for winter and won’t require any fertiliser until late winter-early spring. Birches, Elms and Ashes make for great planting now. Weeping Cherries and Japanese Maples are ideal feature trees for a small suburban garden and are beginning to put on quite a show!
The non-deciduous plants that are ready for autumn and winter flowering, will require some food to produce their beautiful blooms. Beautiful autumn and winter bloomers such as Camellia and Azalea will need a fertiliser such as Osmocote Controlled Release Fertiliser: Roses, Gardenia, Azaleas and Camellias. The right balance of nutrients and minerals coupled with the correct soil pH produce the perfect blooms. If your flowers aren’t forming correctly or the colours aren’t right, it could be a pH or fertiliser problem so this is something to keep in mind when they first start to form.
It is not commonly known but autumn marks the start of the best planting time for natives. It is ideal to plant natives from autumn through to spring when the temperatures aren’t so harsh. And there are some absolutely iridescent natives that put on a spectacular show during this time of the year. Victoria’s floral emblem, Epacris impressa or Common Heath is currently putting on quite a show throughout the Wombat State and other forests. Though usually flowering in late autumn, it has decided to start early this year. Other stunning flowering natives include Banksia’s, which are much loved by cockatoos, Crowea and Correa. Click here to see all our Native plants!
Get your spring-flowering bulbs in the ground by the end of April. Refrigeration or cooling of bulbs in the soil during winter help produce taller flowers with better blooms in the spring. Some of the best producing bulbs are Daffodils, Tulips and Iris.
Fungi and Mushrooms
As the days get cooler and the nights longer, autumn provides a fantastic opportunity to throw on some warm clothes, get outside into the fresh air, and go mushroom foraging. Mushrooms are rich in B vitamins: riboflavin, niacin, and pantothenic acid. The combination helps protect heart health. Riboflavin is good for red blood cells. Niacin is good for the digestive system and for maintaining healthy skin. The mushroom season in Victoria depends on many factors, however, April to June are fairly ideal for foraging, with many tours operating during these months.
Important note about wild mushroom safety: While Victoria has a good variety of edible, wild mushrooms, the region is also home to a number of mushroom species that can cause illness and/or death. These include the yellow stainer (Agaricus xanthodermus) and the death cap (Amanita phalloides). The Victorian Government’s Better Health website has further information on the risks of consuming wild mushrooms in Victoria. You can also visit Facebook groups such as Australia & New Zealand Fungus Identification But always be cautious with online advice.
Mushroom foraging guided tours Instead, looking into mushroom tours offer a great chance to learn how to correctly identify edible mushrooms (and avoid the poisonous ones). Here are some tours that you could join:
-Mushroom Foraging & Lunch at lil’ acres,Woodend, Vic 3442.-Maxs May Mushroom Meander- Red Hill, Victoria.-Mushroomtours, Moorooduc.Growing your own mushrooms! There are several great workshop and mushroom growing suppliers in Melbourne that can assist you in this fun adventure.
-Milkwood (Online)-The Mushroomery (In Person)What to do if mushrooms pop up in the garden or pots? Mushrooms growing in your garden beds or pots are an indication of healthy soil. The mycorrhizal/fungal network connect individual plants together and transfer water, carbon, nitrogen, and other nutrients and minerals. The actual mushroom is only the fruiting body of that network and is responsible for spreading spores to colonise new places. They also assist to decompose organic matter and make it available to other plants. So if you see mushrooms or fungus growing in your patch or pots, you can safely leave them there. Inform your children that these are poisonous and not to eat them. Pets usually are not interested in mushrooms, but if you have a curious pet, it would be better to pull them out.
Mulch
Mulch that was laid down in spring or summer last year should still be thick enough to protect your plants this Autumn, so you do not need to top it up. As a matter of fact, if your mulch has not broken down much and is still quite thick, i.e over 4 inches, you might want to remove some of it to keep about 1-2 inches tops. A thick mulch layer will retain too much humidity in the cool and wet Autumn weather and create the perfect environment for a host of diseases, especially fungal ones, that will spread to and affect your plants. Excess mulch can be saved for later or be added to the compost heap.
The Vegetable Patch
Most summer crops that have provided a bounty of fresh veggies are now looking a bit scraggly, reaching the end of the lifecycle. They can be pulled out, chopped up and composted as long as they are disease-free. Some chillies, capsicum and eggplant can be left a little longer in the ground until they are done fruiting. You can try to keep your chillies and capsicum going over winter by having them in a pot, protected from the cold and frost over the coming months.
Harvest most of your summer crops because the cool weather prevents them from growing anymore or ripening. There are many great ways to preserve excess produce such as Fermenting, Canning, Snap Freezing, Pickling, and Drying. You can also donate the excess to charity associations such as Foodbank and Fareshare. You can also look into swapping produce at swap meetups, which you can find via Local Food Connect.
Before planting Autumn and Winter veg, enrich your soil by top dressing with some compost and manure and let it settle for a week. If the soil is too hard from being baked by the summer heat, you can gently turn it over to incorporate some organic matter into it, which will make new crops grow better. If you have hard or clay soil you can also add some soil wetter to make water penetrate more easily and retain moisture.
Give new seedlings a good boost with an application of liquid fertiliser after a week and they will reward you later on.
If you are not too keen on Autumn or Winter veggies you can plant some green manure crops to allow your soil to improve while waiting for Spring and Summer planting. But if you are, here is a little list of what can be grown right now:
-Greens such as silverbeet, leeks, celery, watercress, lettuce, rocket, spring onion.
-Herbs such as parsley, thyme, oregano, coriander etc
-Asian greens such as Pak Choi, Kailan, Choi Sum
-Brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussel sprouts.
-Root veggies such as beetroot, turnip, radish, parsnip, onions, carrots and garlic.
-Legumes such as sugar snap peas and broad beans.
You can either ripen your tomatoes indoors or on the vine. You can coax the ripening process from green to red when tomatoes are taken indoors—a much better plan than leaving them to wither on their vines. The key to ripening tomatoes is a warm, enclosed and dry environment. Tomatoes need warmth to ripen.
In the bag: To ripen a few green tomatoes, put them in a paper bag, close it up, and store them in a warm location in your home. Kept enclosed together, the ethylene they emit will stimulate ripening. You can add a ripe banana or apple as well to speed things up. Once a tomato is ripe, remove it from the bag and enjoy it right away. Check the bag daily for mould or rot and remove any spoiled pieces.
Box method: If you have several green tomatoes you want to ripen, consider using a cardboard box. Place them in the box so they do not touch one another. You can add a ripe banana as well. Close the box and, as with the bag-ripening method, check daily for mould and rot, or full ripening, and remove those tomatoes.
The windowsill approach: Try this if your tomatoes have already started to show some ripened colour. Simply put them on the sill of a window that gets sunlight. Inspect them daily for progress. You can also remove tomatoes you have ripening in a bag or box once they start showing signs of colour and continue their ripening on the window sill.
To ripen tomatoes on the vine you can try:
Removing flower clusters. Pluck new flower clusters from tomato plants that have already set fruit. Removing flowers will direct the plant’s energy into ripening the fruit already maturing on the vine.
Removing small or excess fruit. Pick small or excess fruit off of the tomato plant. Removing immature fruit or fruit you will not use will allow the plant to divert energy into ripening larger, already maturing fruit. Tomatoes that reach “mature green” size and have their first blush of colour can be ripened off the vine at room temperature.
Removing some leaves. Pinch away suckers and lower leaves. Tomato plants almost continuously produce new shoots–called suckers–between the main stem and lateral branches. Pinch or prune away this new growth so that the plant can channel its energy into producing and ripening fruit rather than producing new leaves. Leaves just above fruit or fruit clusters should be left in place to protect the fruit from sunburn. Leaves low on the plant that turns yellow or brown or diseased leaves should be removed. These leaves are taking energy away from fruit ripening.
Reducing water and food late in the season. Reduce water and fertilizer to encourage “mature green” fruits to ripen. Fertilizer–especially excess nitrogen–encourages new leaf growth at the expense of fruit growth and maturation. (Use fertilizer low in nitrogen 4-8-4 for tomatoes.) Reducing water as fruits reach mature size will enhance ripening (and concentrate flavour) and direct the plant’s energy away from new fruit set to ripening fruit already on the vine
Some gardeners swear by feeding their tomato plants unsulfured blackstrapmolasses, saying that the molasses not only provides tomato plants with energy but also makes ripening tomatoes sweeter and increases microbial activity in the soil. Use about a cup of molasses per two gallons of water, applying no more than once per week.
Pests and Disease
Humid and cool conditions can cause a proliferation of pests and diseases in the garden. Identify them early, treat them, and keep your plants healthy all through Autumn and Winter.
Leaf Miner and Citrus Leaf Miner. These are small nocturnal moths that lay their eggs on the underside of soft fresh leaves of citrus and other seedlings. The eggs hatch and the larvae rapidly burrow under the surface of the leaf, and it is these larvae that cause all the damage. The larvae feed on the epidermal cells of the leaf, creating silvery snake-like ‘mined’ damage to the leaf, which eventually curls up. The best way is to control them is using eco oils, sprayed fortnightly above and below the leaf of plants. This will also deter many other pests. A chemical/biological control is Spinosad (marketed as Success by Yates) is also reputed to be effective against leaf miners.
Cabbage Butterflies and Moths. White Cabbage butterflies lay their eggs on our Brassicas, such as broccoli and cauliflower. Little green caterpillars hatch from these eggs and then get to work chewing holes through the plants. There are several ways to control them.
Netting- You can protect your young crop by covering them with netting that would prevent the butterflies from reaching them.
Companion plants- Plant some strong-smelling herbs such as lavender, sage, and rosemary that seem to discourage cabbage moths from settling and laying eggs. Try planting them around the edges of your patch to form an odour barrier. You can also plant decoy plants such as nasturtiums, dill, and mustard, which will draw egg layers away from your main crops.
Using decoy ‘Scarecrows‘- Cabbage moths are highly territorial and will avoid laying eggs where there’s already competition for food. Use little decoys around brassicas to send them somewhere else. Here is a great little printable template that you can use. Click Here to see the template. This template was created by the Australian Butterfly Conservation.
Dipel – An organic biological insecticide that is based on Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, which is an insecticide derived from beneficial bacteria found in soil, on plant surfaces and also in insects. It specifically targets caterpillars and is safe for beneficial insects such as ladybirds and bees.
Other Pests. Thrips, Mites, Scales, Aphids, and Whiteflies are other bugs that cause a lot of damage to our plants. Here is a very natural way of controlling them by using nature itself. Bugs for Bugs is a company that specialises in integrated pest management (IPM) and is one of Australia’s leading suppliers of biological control agents. Here is a great little chart for controlling bugs by using bugs.
Blackspot and Rust commonly affect Rose plants. If you notice any of those on your roses, you can cut them back lightly, remove the diseased leaves, spray the remaining leaves with some organic copper-based fungicide, and also fertilize them to encourage new growth and blooms.
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plant problems at this time of the year. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or grey powder-like substance. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants. A simple remedy is a good spray of the following mix: 1 tablespoon baking soda with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Another option is a mix of 1 part milk with 10 parts of water. If this natural remedy fails to get rid of it, you can look into Sulphur based fungicides.
Root rot and Wet Feet are the most damaging ailments our houseplants can suffer from, and one of the most common. An infection can destroy a plant literally from the ground up. It spreads quickly, and without prompt action, it’s soon too late. Roots of plants affected by root rot may turn from firm and white to black/brown and soft. Affected roots may also fall off the plant when touched. The leaves of affected plants may also wilt, become small or discoloured. Affected plants may also look stunted due to poor growth, develop cankers or ooze sap. Once root rot is identified, you must determine if the plant can be saved. If the entire root system has already become mushy, it is too late to save the plant. However, if some healthy, white, firm roots exist, try to bring the plant back to good health by replanting in fresh soil with good drainage.Click here to read more about wetfeet.
That’s all for this month! Thanks for reading our Gardening in April 2023 Article. 🙂 See you in-store here at 1477 Sydney Road, Campbellfield!
Gardening in Autumn, April in the Garden 2023. Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
As we are reaching the end of Summer here in Melbourne, we can all certainly feel the cool change and the days getting shorter. This is the season that reminds us that our bodies, minds, and surroundings are always changing. It represents the preservation of life and its basic necessities. In a way, the autumn season offers us a chance to reconnect with ourselves.
We have warm days and cooler nights ahead so if you plant now and use soil wetter, plants are easy to keep moist and establish quickly. The really hot weather is now 9 Months away and your plants will be well established before it gets hot again. Now is also the best time to buy, as our Nursery is absolutely full of big cheap plants at bargain prices. In spring plants tend to be smaller and more expensive because of the traditional spring sales boom but if you want big bushy cheap plants the optimum time to buy and plant is now.
As we harvest the last rewards of Summer, we enjoy this generous bounty by cooking delicious meals and we also preserve extras for the cooler months. In the garden, there are beautiful blooms to enjoy. Crepe Myrtles are putting on a beautiful display, along with Hibiscus, Hydrangeas, Roses, Oleanders, and several others. Rhododendrons and Camellias have a few flowers and many buds that are slowly swelling up for a lovely Autumn bloom.
Before the leaves start changing colour, there are many things to do in the garden to prepare for a beautiful Autumn, so here are the main points.
Planting and Watering
With the lower temperatures, you can put any plant in the ground safely without much risk of shocking or stunting them. It is an ideal time for many summer heat-sensitive plants such as Maples, Weeping Cherries, and Birches to go into the ground. They will have over 8 months to get properly established for the next summer. Just make sure to water them adequately and keep the soil moist, but not too wet. This is the best time for a large property and commercial landscape planting. As of March, the rate of evaporation of water from the soil is less, so you can water your outdoor and indoor plants less frequently, or adjust your irrigation system accordingly. Watch out for root rot, which can happen to plants that have poor drainage or excessive watering. Read more about this lower in the Pests and Disease section. Click here for a little guide on planting your store-bought plants.
Lawns
The heat of summer and dry weather can be very bad for lawns if they are not watered properly. This is a great time to repair any dry patches or any damage caused during summer. • The first step is to dethatch your grass with a rake to remove the accumulation of dead grass and long runners. Thatch is a build of dead grass leaves, stems and root which leaves your lawn looking unsightly after it is mown. • Aerate your lawn with a garden fork or aerator. Almost all lawns will benefit from aeration, and a great lawn demands it. That said, most lawns do not need it. Lawns suffering from heavy foot traffic, excessive thatch buildup (more than 1 inch thick) or grown on heavy soils will benefit the most.
• Top dress with some fine compost and/or lawn fertilizer. Rake over to even it out and water your lawn to settle it in.
• Worn out, dry or dead patches can be over sown with some lawn seed or replaced with patches of instant turf.
Mulch
Mulch that was laid down in spring or summer last year should still be thick enough to protect your plants this Autumn, so you do not need to top it up. As a matter of fact, if your mulch has not broken down much and is still quite thick, i.e over 4 inches, you might want to remove some of it to keep about 1-2 inches tops. A thick mulch layer will retain too much humidity over in the cool and wet Autumn weather and create the perfect environment for a host of diseases, especially fungal ones, that will spread to and affect your plants. Excess mulch can be saved for later or be added to the compost heap. If you do not have any mulch, well, now is also a good time to add about 1-2 inches of it on your topsoil to protect your plants.
Fertilizing
Due to the frequent watering in summer, nutrients leach away from the soil, especially from pots and planters. Nitrogen or Nitrates are the most common essential nutrients that leach away, along with other highly soluble minerals such as calcium. You may tend to notice discolouration or yellowing leaves on your plants. The best way to prevent leaching is by top-dressing your soil with organic matter, compost, manure, plus a thin layer of mulch to encourage microbial and fungal activity in the soil. Mycorrhizal fungi create tiny root-like dense webs in the soil that holds on to moisture and nutrients. Most importantly, they create a complex network for nutrient and resource exchange between various plants. Tender new growth that comes from fertilization will now also be fairly safe from sun or heat damage, thanks to the cooler temperatures. You can fertilize potted plants, garden ornamentals and trees, flowers, lawn, citrus and other fruit trees too. Use slow-release fertilizers or seaweed solutions instead of traditional instant “NPK” ones. These take time to break down and give a steady supply of nutrients for a few months. Choosing the right fertilizer for the right plant is important as these contain trace elements that the specific plants require which are often scarce in normal soil.
After the beautiful first summer blooms, many of the flowering perennials are now covered with spent flowers, which are busy producing seeds inside. Some plants have a big flush of flowers at once, such as catmint, while others flower more consistently over the flowering period, such as daisies. The longer you leave spent blooms on the plant, the more resources or nutrients they utilize to produce seeds, and the plant will feel that it has completed its life cycle, i.e producing seeds to ensure the next generation. The best thing to do is to remove spent blooms as soon as the flower petals shrivel up. This will encourage more flowers to pop out.
Very often the late summer/autumn blooms do not look as spectacular as the earlier ones. However, you can give those plants a beautiful lastlate Summer-Autumnflush of flowers by doing some light pruning and removing all spent flowers, followed by an application of bloom-promoting fertilizer or seaweed solution, preferably by foliar application, and also around the root zone. Make sure to deadhead your Agapanthus early, to prevent them from going to seed, as they can get quite invasive.
The Vegetable Patch
Most summer crops that have provided a bounty of fresh veggies are now reaching the end of the lifecycle. They can be pulled out, chopped up and composted as long as they are disease-free. Some chillies, capsicum and eggplant can be left a little longer in the ground until they are done fruiting. You can try to overwinter your chillies and capsicum by having them in a pot or covered in the ground, protected from the cold and frost over the winter. Once spring comes around, they will start to grow again and produce much earlier than newly planted ones.
• Harvest most of your summer crops because the cool weather prevents them from growing any more or ripening. There are many great ways to preserve excess produce such as Fermenting, Canning, Snap Freezing, Pickling, and Drying. You can also donate the excess to charity associations such as Foodbank and Fareshare. You can also look into swapping produce at swap meetups, which you can find via Local Food Connect.
• Before planting Autumn and Winter veg, enrich your soil by top dressing with some compost and manure and let it settle for a week or two. If the soil is too hard from being baked by the summer heat, you can gently turn it over to incorporate some organic matter into it, which will make new crops grow better. If you have hard or clay soil you can also add some soil wetter to make water penetrate more easily and retain moisture.
• Give new seedlings a good boost with an application of liquid fertiliser after a week or two and they will reward you later on.
• If you are not too keen on Autumn or Winter veggies you can plant some green manure crops to allow your soil to improve while waiting for Spring and Summer planting. But if you are, here is a little list of what can be grown right now:
• Greens such as silverbeet, leeks, celery, watercress, lettuce, rocket, spring onion.
• Herbs such as parsley, thyme, oregano, coriander etc
• Asian greens such as Pak Choi, Kailan, Choi Sum
• Brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussel sprouts.
• Root veggies such as beetroot, turnip, radish, parsnip, onions, carrots and .
• Legumes such as sugar snap peas and broad beans. Check out our available range of vegetables and herbs.
How to ripen up your green tomatoes!
This year all my tomatoes have ripened up beautifully in the garden! But if you live in cold areas, they might take a bit longer to ripen up!
You can either ripen your tomatoes indoors or on the vine. You can coax the ripening process from green to red when tomatoes are taken indoors—a much better plan than leaving them to wither on their vines. The key to ripening tomatoes is a warm, enclosed and dry environment. Tomatoes need warmth to ripen.
In the bag: To ripen a few green tomatoes, put them in a paper bag, close it up, and store them in a warm location in your home. Kept enclosed together, the ethylene they emit will stimulate ripening. You can add a ripe banana or apple as well to speed things up. Once a tomato is ripe, remove it from the bag and enjoy it right away. Check the bag daily for mould or rot and remove any spoiled pieces.
Box method: If you have several green tomatoes you want to ripen, consider using a cardboard box. Place them in the box so they do not touch one another. You can add a ripe banana as well. Close the box and, as with the bag-ripening method, check daily for mould and rot, or full ripening, and remove those tomatoes.
The windowsill approach: Try this if your tomatoes have already started to show some ripened colour. Simply put them on the sill of a window that gets sunlight. Inspect them daily for progress. You can also remove tomatoes you have ripening in a bag or box once they start showing signs of colour and continue their ripening on the window sill.
To ripen tomatoes on the vine you can try:
Removing flower clusters. Pluck new flower clusters from tomato plants that have already set fruit. Removing flowers will direct the plant’s energy into ripening the fruit already maturing on the vine.
Removing small or excess fruit. Pick small or excess fruit off of the tomato plant. Removing immature fruit or fruit you will not use will allow the plant to divert energy into ripening larger, already maturing fruit. Tomatoes that reach “mature green” size and have their first blush of colour can be ripened off the vine at room temperature.
Removing some leaves. Pinch away suckers and lower leaves. Tomato plants almost continuously produce new shoots–called suckers–between the main stem and lateral branches. Pinch or prune away this new growth so that the plant can channel its energy into producing and ripening fruit rather than producing new leaves. Leaves just above fruit or fruit clusters should be left in place to protect the fruit from sunburn. Leaves low on the plant that turns yellow or brown or diseased leaves should be removed. These leaves are taking energy away from fruit ripening.
Reducing water and food late in the season. Reduce water and fertilizer to encourage “mature green” fruits to ripen. Fertilizer–especially excess nitrogen–encourages new leaf growth at the expense of fruit growth and maturation. (Use fertilizer low in nitrogen 4-8-4 for tomatoes.) Reducing water as fruits reach mature size will enhance ripening (and concentrate flavour) and direct the plant’s energy away from new fruit set to ripening fruit already on the vine
Some gardeners swear by feeding their tomato plants unsulfured blackstrapmolasses, saying that the molasses not only provides tomato plants with energy but also makes ripening tomatoes sweeter and increases microbial activity in the soil. Use about a cup of molasses per two gallons of water, applying no more than once per week.
Pests and Disease
Humid and cool conditions can cause a proliferation of pests and diseases in the garden. Identify them early, treat them, and keep your plants healthy all through Autumn and Winter.
• Leaf Miner and Citrus Leaf Miner. These are small nocturnal moths that lay their eggs on the underside of soft fresh leaves of citrus and other seedlings. The eggs hatch and the larvae rapidly burrow under the surface of the leaf, and it is these larvae that cause all the damage. The larvae feed on the epidermal cells of the leaf, creating a silvery snake-like ‘mined’ damage to the leaf, which eventually curls up. The best way is to control them is using eco oils, sprayed fortnightly above and below the leaf of plants. This will also deter many other pests. A chemical/biological control is Spinosad (marketed as Success by Yates) is also reputed to be effective against leaf-miners. • Cabbage Butterflies and Moths. White Cabbage butterflies lay their eggs on our Brassicas, such as broccoli and cauliflower. Little green caterpillars hatch from these eggs and then get to work chewing holes through the plants. There are several ways to control them.
Netting- You can protect your young crop by covering them with netting that would prevent the butterflies from reaching them.
Companion plants- Plant some strong-smelling herbs such as lavender, sage, and rosemary seem to discourage cabbage moths from settling and laying eggs. Try planting them around the edges of your patch to form an odour barrier. You can also plant decoy plants such as nasturtiums, dill, and mustard, which will draw egg-layers away from your main crops.
Using decoy ‘Scarecrows‘- Cabbage moths are highly territorial and will avoid laying eggs where there’s already competition for food. Use little decoys around brassicas to send them somewhere else. Here is a great little printable template that you can use. Click Here to see the template. This template was created by the Australian Butterfly Conservation.
Dipel – An organic biological insecticide which is based on Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, which is an insecticide derived from beneficial bacteria found in soil, on plant surfaces and also in insects. It specifically targets caterpillars and is safe for beneficial insects such as ladybirds and bees.
• Other Pests. Thrips, Mites, Scales, Aphids, and Whiteflies are other bugs that cause a lot of damage to our plants. Here is a very natural way of controlling them by using nature itself. Bugs for Bugs is a company that specialises in integrated pest management (IPM) and is one of Australia’s leading suppliers of biological control agents. Here is a great little chart for controlling bugs by using bugs. Click here to see their website. Or visit their Facebook page! • Blackspot and Rust commonly affect Rose plants. If you notice any of those on your roses, you can cut them back lightly, remove the diseased leaves, spray the remaining leaves with some organic copper-based fungicide, and also fertilize them to encourage new growth and blooms.
• Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plant problems at this time of the year. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or grey powder-like substance. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants. A simple remedy is a good spray of the following mix: 1 tablespoon baking soda with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Another option is a mix of 1 part milk with 10 parts of water. If this natural remedy fails to get rid of it, you can look into Sulphur based fungicides.
• Root rot and Wet Feet are the most damaging ailments our houseplants can suffer from, and one of the most common. An infection can destroy a plant literally from the ground up. It spreads quickly, and without prompt action it’s soon too late. Roots of plants affected by root rot may turn from firm and white to black/brown and soft. Affected roots may also fall off the plant when touched. The leaves of affected plants may also wilt, become small or discolored. Affected plants may also look stunted due to poor growth, develop cankers or ooze sap.
Once root rot is identified, you must determine if the plant can be saved. If the entire root system has already become mushy, it is too late to save the plant. However, if some healthy, white, firm roots are visible, try to bring the plant back to good health by replanting in fresh soil with good drainage.Click here to read more about it.
We currently have a Garden Project list with lots of great bargains on big bushy plants that are essential to any garden and not to forget a big list of Freebies for the month of March! Click here to see them.
But before you go, check out the some of the various new plants we have on offer at the nursery!
Tropical Touch!
You don’t need to travel to a tropical island to escape. When you have a tropical garden, every day is like a holiday! We all love little cosy tropical corners, and those are very easy to achieve with plants such as giant birds of paradise, palms, cordylines and gorgeous Frangipanis. In Melbourne, tropical plants grow best in an East-South facing garden. Keep in mind that they are not frost-tolerant and should be planted in a spot sheltered from the wind. Plant them in layers to have the tallest ones at the back and the smaller plants in the front. Mix and match leaf shapes and colours to create contrast! Here is a great selection of plants to get you started!
Some flowers that you can grow from seed now that will flower soon enough and throughout Autumn/ early Winter are Alyssum, calendula, candytuft, carnation, cineraria, cornflower, cosmos, daisy, foxglove, lobelia, nasturtium, nemesia, pansy, poppy, primula, schizanthus, snapdragon, sweet pea and viola. We have quite a few of those already in store, and will be getting more in soon!
We have a fantastic selection of perennial flowering plants in store right now that are already flowering or just about to flowers, such as Gazania, Fuschia, Calibrachoa, Daisies, and salvias. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting colours all Autumn long.
Block out those pesky or curious neighbours with a nice thick hedge. Also great to block out some noise and wind. Transform your garden into a little oasis of peace with these great hedging options that are all on sale right now!
Beautiful Foliage!
Rather than relying on annual flowers for summer-long colour, think of plants with colourful and interesting foliage. Coleus is one such plant that is easy to grow and easily adds a splash of colour to any area of your garden. Here are some interesting options:
Roses are still blooming beautifully at this time of the year. It is also a good time to deadhead your roses and feed them with some balanced, bloom, or rose fertilizer for the last flush of roses of the season. Avoid overhead watering as this can cause fungal problems. Watering early in the morning is better than in the evening. Once established, roses are quite drought hardy so water deeply only every so often. They are available in several forms such as bush form, climbing form, carpet roses, weeping roses, and as standard (ball on a stick).
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety in 4L pots that are on sale right now! These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
• Various fruit. Here is a great selection of the most popular and rare varieties, ideal for small spaces. These are in limited quantities, so better hurry up.
• Herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots on your balcony or your patio. They will grow well in shaded, partly shaded, and sunny spots. You can harvest them by chopping the tops and they will simply grow back. You can also chop them up, dry them and create your own mixed herbs for later use. Once you start planting your own herbs, you will never buy them at the supermarket again.
Imagine being in your backyard relaxing, enjoying a drink and kicking back on your deck to catch some serious rays and then you catch the neighbour having a peek at you over the fence. Relaxation ruined! Or what if a two-storey unit goes up right next to your property with a whole floor of windows peering down into your backyard creating the feeling that you’re always being watched, even when you’re not!
Not all of us are lucky enough to get views of the rolling hills or the ocean from our yard. Instead we’re in fence-to-fence housing with backyards to match. To reclaim some privacy, screening plants are essential. But screening is not the only reason to be planting a hedge, green wall or screen.
Top reasons to plant screening plants:
Privacy from neighbours, tall units and busy roads
Protection from strong winds and gusts
Cools any concrete or brick areas during summer and subsequently reduces heat inside the house.
Thick screens are great sound insulators from busy roads
A filter for dust and smoke pollution that might otherwise just blow onto your outdoor furniture, deck, windows or pool
Attract wildlife and birds
Hides unsightly features such as water tanks or ugly walls
Create a lush, relaxing outdoor environment
Hedging or screening plants. What’s the difference?
Although they sound the same, hedging and screening have some subtle differences. It just depends on your needs.
A screen is typically less formal in design than a hedge, and it is used to hide an eyesore, create privacy or block the wind
A screen often uses more individual plants, rather than a dense block of foliage
A screen commonly requires less maintenance than most hedges, which usually need several trimmings throughout the year to keep them in a tight shape
Hedges provide total block-out while screens break a view (from a particular window for example)
A hedge will be dense, generally from top to bottom, and will block out light and views while a screen can be pleached halfway down the bottom.
Planting and Growing Tips for Screening plants:
Drip-irrigation system on a simple timer is highly advised. Correct watering is critical for quality growth.
Work the soil according to the plant requirements. Adding some quality compost or composted manure through the soil is ideal.
Once planted, fertilise with some liquid fertiliser and feed at regular intervals. A controlled release component that feeds for 6-months and an organic component to look after all-important soil microorganisms works wonders.
Mulch well at planting time and top-up at least once a year.
Prune early and prune often. Regular pruning and shaping makes a screen dense and bushy, similar to a hedge. Light pruning will allow more light through and the plant to grow more tree like.
If you want a dense screen, grow plants fairly close together – a distance slightly less than the mature spread of the plant (We have provided ideal planting distance for each plant below)
Trimming your screen is very important! It keeps it healthy and lush looking!
Be patient! If you are on a budget and will plant fewer or smaller plants, they will take some time to get established before they start growing fast. If you want a quicker effect, be prepared to pay more for larger plants; what we would call instant screens.
Should you be in a real hurry, bamboo makes a quick and tall screen. Clumping varieties are advised rather than the running types, which are prone to taking over a garden, and your neighbours!
Make sure to trim your screens at the desired height often. If you let them grow too tall, they might be difficult or even costly to trim back afterward.
Choose your plants by your requirements such as soil type, growth speed, maintenance, and also your visual preference. The wrong plant in the wrong environment won’t grow!
Ok, now that you know the basics, let’s take a look at the plants
Leighton Green Conifer is a fast-growing conifer that provides great green colour all year round. Grows upright and is usually quite symmetrical. Click here to read the full fact sheet.
Ideal for: Total visual, noise, dust & dirt protection. Large gardens – NOT small Growth Rate: Fast – Upto 3 meters in the first 18 months Height: 10-12m if left unchecked Soil Requirements: Tolerates nearly all soil types but prefers well-drained, fertile soil. Maintenance: Medium-Low. Prune 2-3 times a year to keep nice and thick. Planting Distance: 1m apart
Slender Weavers Bamboo’s stalks are tall, narrow, and straight, and graceful leaves with ever-changing green stems make this bamboo a real stunner. It is ideal as a large screening plant for privacy against a double story next door or planted in a small courtyard as a great specimen. It is also an extremely fast grower and will grow in a wide range of situations including a windy coastline or a shady mountain gully.
Ideal for: Tall narrow hedge in small spaces. Growth Rate: Very Fast- 3 to 4 meters in 12 months time Height: 4-6 meters, up to 8m in warmer areas Soil Requirements: Deep, well-drained, fertile soils. Maintenance: Low. Requires regular watering so a timed watering system would be ideal. Prune and thin once a year. Thick shoots can be dried and used as garden stakes! Planting Distance: 80cm apart for a dense screen. Keep in mind that they clump (send out new shoots all the time.)
Sweet Viburnum is a dense evergreen shrub with distinctly large leathery oval green leaves and producing fragrant small white flowers in spring. It makes a perfect ornamental addition to any garden, particularly as it sprouts beautiful red berries in autumn.
Ideal for: Ornamental flowering hedge or screening plant that grows even in shaded areas Growth Rate: Moderate – 30-60cm per year Height x Width: 3-4m Soil Requirements: Moist, moderately fertile, cool soil Maintenance: Low-Moderate. A couple of prunings a year to keep it in shape. Produces berries that may require cleaning up. Planting Distance: 1m apart
This Australian native is known as the Weeping Lilly Pilly due to its slightly drooping habit, which is visually very attractive. It is often used as a hedge or screen and responds well to pruning. Although often used as a hedge, it can also be planted as an evergreen tree. It flowers white in summer. It can easily grow in many soil types and copes well with damp soils. It is fast-growing and has a lovely, lush, compact foliage with the new growth a pink/rust colour adding contrast. It is less prone to bug attacks than other Lilly pillys.
Ideal for: Average soil types and around pools with regular trimming
Growth Rate: Fast. Up to 2m a year. Height: 8m if left unchecked Soil Requirements: Grows well in a wide range, but prefers Loamy to Sandy loam soils Maintenance: Moderate. Twice yearly pruning to keep it in shape is advised. Does produces tiny fruit in warmer climates that may require cleaning up. Not so much in Melbourne Planting Distance: 1 to 1.5m for total screen
Ficus hillii ‘Flash’ is ideal as a screen because of its dense foliage, fast-growing habit and ability to be trimmed into many shapes! It has attractive foliage which, consists of different beautiful glossy greens. Ficus hillii ‘Flash’ can also be shaped into a standard (ball on a stick) topiary style tree and pleached (Leaves on top, bottom trunk bare). Caution: It does have an aggressive root system so it is advised to contain the size of the plant to contain the roots. Not suited for around pools.
Ideal for: Very windy, drought-prone areas, salt Growth Rate: Fast – 1-1.5m per year Height: 10-15m tall in the natural environment. 4-6m tall in urban environments. Soil Requirements: Fast. Up to 60cm per year. Maintenance: Low. One or two prunings a year is enough. Planting Distance: 1 to 1.5m for total screen
Cherry Laurel is a large evergreen shrub or small tree that has deep green glossy leaves that are large, leathery, and oblong. The veins are distinctly yellow. It has strongly scented tiny creamy white flowers that appear in spring. Cherry Laurel is an attractive and useful addition to the landscape. This plant is shade tolerant and makes an excellent dense hedge. Prefers well-drained moist soil.
Portugal Laurel is an evergreen, large spreading tree. It features glossy dark green leaves with slender spikes of small, scented white flowers in summer. Portugal Laurel is very effective as a hedging or screening plant that can be kept clipped from 1-4 metres, or left to grow into a small spreading tree. Its dark glossy green leaves provide an ideal backdrop for other plants in the garden, and it’s very showy when in full flower.
Ideal for: Flowering Screen or Pleached tree Growth Rate: Moderate- 30-60cm per year Height: 4-8m depending on conditions Soil Requirements: Slightly acidic, moderately fertile, moist, well-drained soils. Maintenance: Low. Twice yearly trimming to keep it neat. Can produce berries that may need cleaning up Planting Distance: 60-90cm
Photinia Robusta is a small fast-growing tree with glossy red foliage turning green in the warmer months. It has small white flowers, that can have a slightly unpleasant odour in summer with red fleshy fruit following. With a dense growth habit, it’s great for screening.
Ideal for: Colourful, red and glossy screen Growth Rate: Moderate- 30- 50 cm in 1 year Height: Up to 7m Soil Requirements: Fertile, loamy, and well-drained soil Maintenance: Low. Pruning two times a year. Flowers may require pruning if they bother you. Planting Distance: 1 to 1.5m for total screen
Orange Jessamine makes a fantastic hedging or screening plant. As it flowers it creates a wonderful feature hedge that is highly fragrant. It can also be used in pots as a specimen tree or as screening on balconies. Orange Jessamine’s white, highly perfumed flowers appear in summer in large masses but can spot flowers throughout the year. The uncommonly seen fruit is a small orange berry shape.
Ideal for: Flowering hedge or screen Growth Rate: Slow to medium – Grows about 30-40 cm per year Height: 3-4m Soil Requirements: Adaptable to various soils but prefers loamy, free-draining soil enriched with organic matter Maintenance: Low. One pruning per year is enough. Planting Distance: 30-50cm apart
Pittosporum ‘Silver Sheen’ is a lovely evergreen screening plant. The silvery-green leaves give it a unique shimmering effect. It can be planted along fence lines to give your space some privacy. It likes full sun, can grow in coastal areas, tolerates light frost, is suitable for growing in containers, and responds very well to pruning.
Wonder Screen is a new form of Pittosporum that is noted for its dense and tighter habit. Similar to ‘Silver Sheen’ foliage it produces a striking mix of silver and green with dark stems. It will grow in full sun to a semi-shade position. Grows to approximately 2-4m in height.
Ideal for: Different looking screening and hedging Growth Rate: Fast. 60-75cm per year Height: 2-4 m high and Soil Requirements: Adaptable to most soil types except wet clay or really dry but prefers deep, well-drained soil. Maintenance: Low. One to two prunings per year
Planting Distance: 1 per meter
Neighbors-be-gone and Chris running around nude in the garden is literally what made Hello Hello Plants famous back in the day! Chris had (and still has) these wacky ideas for ads and he just had to do them!
Neighbors-be-gone trees can be used to create tall screens, large hedges, and large topiary. They can be planted in pots or confined areas. Although they have the potential to grow into large trees, their size can be contained by regular clipping. Neighbors-be-gone trees have deep green, dense, fine foliage and copper-red new growth and can grow two or more meters per year once established, and love to be clipped and shaped. Click here to read the full fact sheet.
Ideal For: Thick privacy screens Growth Rate: Very fast: 1-2m per year once established Height: Over 25m if left unchecked. Maintain at the desired height. Soil Requirements: They thrive in almost any soil Maintenance: Moderate. Requires a few prunings per year and clean up when it flowers and fruits.
Planting Distance: For fast results plant 75cm apart otherwise 1-1.5 metres apart
Some other great Screens that require Fence/Trellis support
If you already have a fence, you can also plant a climbing plant to grow over it! It might not cover everything, but will provide some privacy, especially higher up.
After a small heatwave this summer, the forecast for February is a bit cooler and more rainy days! This means that this month is perfect for putting any plants you want in the ground!
We usually have long hot summers with blistering heat waves, where we have to water our plants twice or more a day to prevent them from dramatically flopping over, shrivelling up to a crisp, but it seems that these long hot summers are getting less intense, perhaps due to climate change. While we like the cooler weather, one downside is that tomatoes are taking longer to ripen up. We have included a few tips on ripening up your tomatoes faster, later in this article.
In February, there are fewer flowers on plants as most have put on their most lavish displays earlier this year, and are now covered with spent blooms. Some other plants such as Corymbias, Crepe Myrtles, Oleanders, Kangaroo paws, Daisies, and Roses are still flowering beautifully. In the garden, there is always lots to do, so here are the main points:
Planting and Watering
With the lower temperatures, you can put any plant in the ground safely without any risk of shocking or stunting them. Just make sure to water them generously and keep the soil moist, but not too wet. This is the best time for a large property and commercial landscape planting. As of mid-February, the rate of evaporation of water from the soil is less, so you can water your plants less frequently, or adjust your irrigation system accordingly.
Dead-heading and Pruning
After the beautiful first summer blooms, many of the flowering perennials are now covered with spent flowers, which are busy producing seeds inside. Some plants have a big flush of flowers at once, such as catmint, while others flower more consistently over the flowering period, such as daisies. The longer you leave spent blooms on the plant, the more resources or nutrients they utilize to produce seeds, and the plant will feel that it has completed its life cycle, i.e producing seeds to ensure the next generation. The best thing to do is to remove spent blooms once the flower petals shrivel up. This will encourage more flowers to pop out. Very often the late summer blooms do not look as good as the earlier ones. You can give those plants a beautiful secondlate Summer-Autumnflush of flowers by doing some light pruning and removing all flowers, followed by an application of bloom-promoting fertilizer or seaweed solution, preferably by foliar application, and also applied around the root zone. Make sure to deadhead your Agapanthus early, to prevent them from going to seed, as they can get quite invasive.
Fertilizing
Due to the frequent watering in summer, nutrients leach away from the soil, especially from pots and planters. Nitrogen or Nitrates are the most common nutrients that leach away along with other highly soluble minerals such as calcium. You may tend to notice discoloration or yellowing leaves on your plants. The best way to prevent leaching is by top-dressing your soil with organic matter, compost, manure and encouraging microbial and fungal activity in the soil. Mycorrhizal fungi create tiny root-like dense webs in the soil that hold on to moisture and nutrients. Most importantly, they create a complex network for nutrient and resource exchange between various plants. Use slow-release fertilisers or seaweed solutions instead of traditional instant NPK ones. These take time to break down and give a steady supply of nutrients for a few months. Choosing the right fertiliser for the right plant is important as these contain trace elements that the specific plants require and are often scarce in normal soil.
Warmer weather and humid conditions create the perfect mix for a host of pests and diseases for plants. Identify them early, treat them, and keep your plants healthy all through summer.
• Rats and Possums love to nibble on our summer veggies, fruit and even blooms such as your roses! If left unchecked they will cause some real havoc in the garden. Avoid poisons at all costs, as these may kill other animals such as birds, cats, or even dogs. Adopt for more natural ways of getting rid of these pests such as live catch and release traps, netting, electronic garden pest deterrents.
• Mosquitoes are always lurking around the garden waiting for unsuspecting gardeners. You can plant a range of mozzie-blocker plants to deter them such as Lavender, Marigolds, Citronella or Lemon Grass, Catnip, Rosemary, Basil, Scented Geraniums, and Lemon Balm. Plant as many as you can, ideally about 5-10 plants for a patio area. Remember, mosquitos breed in still pools of water such as ponds or the trays of water around your plants. If you have a lot of mosquitoes you may want to empty your pot trays and refresh the water regularly to wipe out that next mosquito generation.
Alternatively, here is an old mosquito repellent recipe that you could try. Some people swear by its effectiveness. Let us know how well it works for you! Take a big bottle of cheap blue mouthwash, 3 cups of Epsom salts, 3 stale bottles of cheap beer. Mix all three until salts are dissolved. Spray anywhere outside in the garden, pool areas, or sitting areas and the mosquitoes are gone for about 80 days!!
• Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plant problems at this time of the year. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants. A simple remedy is a good spray of the following mix: 1 tablespoon baking soda, with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Another option is a mix of 1 part milk with 10 parts of water.
• Blossom end rot is a common disorder of tomato, pepper, cucumber, and eggplant. Blossom end rot is an environmental problem (not fungal) most often caused by uneven watering or by calcium deficiency. (These can be related; uneven watering can interfere with the uptake of calcium.) This common garden “disease” is often brought on by rapid growth from too much fertilizer, high salt levels, or drought. It can be fixed easily by applying a liquid calcium fertilizer or top-dressing with some blood and bone meal, which is high in calcium.
• Blackspot and Rust commonly affect Rose plants. If you notice any of those on your roses, you can cut them back lightly, remove the diseased leaves, spray the remaining leaves with some organic copper-based fungicide, and also fertilize them to encourage new growth and blooms.
• Brown Rot is a fungal disease that breeds in humid, wet weather that affects stone fruit such as peaches, plums, cherries, apricots and nectarines. The fungus spreads rapidly, and the entire structure of the plant including the flower, branch, leaf and fruit can turn brown and shrivel, making the fruit inedible. Luckily, brown rot is not a lethal disease. However, once fruits are infected, there are no curative treatments To reduce disease levels, remove rotten and mummified fruit and prune and remove infected twigs. Dispose of these branches by burning (where allowed by local ordinance) or burying them.
Rather than relying on annual flowers for summer-long color, think of plants with colorful and interesting foliage. Coleus is one such plant that is easy to grow and easily adds a splash of color to any area of your garden. Here are some interesting options:
Fantastic Hedges
Block out those pesky or curious neighbors with a nice thick hedge. Also great to block out some noise and wind. Transform your garden into a little oasis of peace with these great hedging options that are all on sale right now! We have a great little article about the Top 10 Screening plants coming out next week, so stay tuned.
We have a fantastic selection of perennial flowering plants in store right now that are already flowering or just about to flower, such as Gazania, Dahlia, Fuschia, Calibrachoa, Daisies, and Echinaceas. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting textures and colors all Summer long.
Roses are blooming beautifully at this time of the year. Now is a great time to choose which one is your favorite in terms of color and scent, so make sure you check out our range of roses in full bloom now. It is also a good time to feed your roses with some balanced, bloom, or rose fertilizer. A good tip for more blooms on your roses is to dead-head the spent flowers regularly as this encourages more flowers. Avoid overhead watering as this can cause fungal problems. Watering early in the morning is better than in the evening. Once established, roses are quite drought hardy so water deeply only every so often. They are available in several forms such as bush form, climbing form, carpet roses, weeping roses, and as standard (ball on a stick).
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety in 4L pots that are on sale right now! These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
• Various fruit. Here is a great selection of the most popular and rare varieties, ideal for small spaces. These are in limited quantities, so better hurry up.
• Summer veggies such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, okra are ready to harvest. Although it is too late to start them from small plants or seeds, you can always get some more advanced ones in pots and put them in the ground. But since we still have two months of summer left, fast growing vegetables such as dwarf beans, radish, zucchini can be planted from seed can still be planted. These can be grown well into autumn.
• Late Summer- Autumn Veggies such as Kale, Leeks, and Celery can be planted now as they prefer the cooler weather. Later in the month, once we get lower night temperatures, you can start sowing some cool-weather crops such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbages. If your current crops have already set fruit for the season and are slowing down or getting diseased, you can pull them out and try a second crop that you can push well into Autumn. Alternatively, you can plant some green manure plants to replenish the soil, then till them in, just in time for Autumn- Winter veggies!
• Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, rocket, endive, silverbeet, mustard greens, and celery will all grow well in the garden right now!
• Herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots on your balcony or your patio. They will grow well in shaded, partly shaded, and sunny spots. You can harvest them and they will simply grow back. You can also chop them up, dry them and create your own mixed herbs for later use. Once you start planting your own herbs, you will never buy them at the supermarket again.
You can either ripen your tomatoes indoors or on the vine. You can coax the ripening process from green to red when tomatoes are taken indoors—a much better plan than leaving them to wither on their vines. The key to ripening tomatoes is a warm, enclosed and dry environment. Tomatoes need warmth to ripen.
In the bag: To ripen a few green tomatoes, put them in a paper bag, close it up, and store them in a warm location in your home. Kept enclosed together, the ethylene they emit will stimulate ripening. You can add a ripe banana or apple as well to speed things up. Once a tomato is ripe, remove it from the bag and enjoy it right away. Check the bag daily for mold or rot and remove any spoiled pieces.
Box method: If you have several green tomatoes you want to ripen, consider using a cardboard box. Place them in the box so they do not touch one another. You can add a ripe banana as well. Close the box and, as with the bag-ripening method, check daily for mold and rot, or full ripening, and remove those tomatoes.
The windowsill approach: Try this if your tomatoes have already started to show some ripened color. Simply put them on the sill of a window that gets sunlight. Inspect them daily for progress. You can also remove tomatoes you have ripening in a bag or box once they start showing signs of color and continue their ripening on the window sill.
To ripen tomatoes on the vine you can try:
Remove flower clusters. Pluck new flower clusters from tomato plants that have already set fruit. Removing flowers will direct the plant’s energy into ripening the fruit already maturing on the vine.
Remove small or excess fruit. Pick small or excess fruit off of the tomato plant. Removing immature fruit or fruit you will not use will allow the plant to divert energy into ripening larger, already maturing fruit. Tomatoes that reach “mature green” size and have their first blush of color can be ripened off the vine at room temperature.
Remove some leaves. Pinch away suckers and lower leaves. Tomato plants almost continuously produce new shoots–called suckers–between the main stem and lateral branches. Pinch or prune away this new growth so that the plant can channel its energy into producing and ripening fruit rather than producing new leaves. Leaves just above fruit or fruit clusters should be left in place to protect the fruit from sunburn. Leaves low on the plant that turns yellow or brown or diseased leaves should be removed. These leaves are taking energy away from fruit ripening.
Reduce water and food late in the season. Reduce water and fertilizer to encourage “mature green” fruits to ripen. Fertilizer–especially excess nitrogen–encourages new leaf growth at the expense of fruit growth and maturation. (Use fertilizer low in nitrogen 4-8-4 for tomatoes.) Reducing water as fruits reach mature size will enhance ripening (and concentrate flavour) and direct the plant’s energy away from new fruit set to ripening fruit already on the vine
Some gardeners swear by feeding their tomato plants unsulfured blackstrap molasses, saying that the molasses not only provides tomato plants with energy but also makes ripening tomatoes sweeter and increases microbial activity in the soil. Use about a cup of molasses per two gallons of water, applying no more than once per week.
That’s it for this month!
We hope to see you in-store here at 1477 Sydney Road, Campbellfield! Stay safe and enjoy your garden!
Gardening February. Melbourne, Victoria, Australia 2023.
We hope you all had lovely holidays and are ready to tackle this new and exciting year, smash your gardening goals, and make the best of everything that life throws at you! It has been and still is a challenging time for many of us and quite uncertain when it comes to the future, but one thing for sure is the benefits that the garden can bring to your life! It will keep you busy, healthy, keep your spirits up and make your life lush and colourful! Roll up your sleeves, stick your two green thumbs up and let’s get busy for 2022!
The month of January is named after the Roman god of gates and doors, Janus, because this month is the door into the new year. Janus is also called the two-faced god and holds the key. He represents all beginnings and possesses the ability to see between what was and what is to come. We do not have the latter, unfortunately, but we can learn from the past and plan for the future! And when it comes to gardening, planning is essential. Let’s have a look at how we can put all the odds in our favor and begin (or maintain) the best garden possible in 2022!
Melbourne in Bloom Magnificent blooms can be seen on every street corner right now, such as gorgeous purple Jacarandas, Oleanders, Canna Lilies, Agapanthus, Corymbias, Crepe Myrtles, Daisies, and so many others. If you are planning a garden makeover or if you are starting a brand new garden this year and need some help, make sure to check out ourFREE Garden Design(Click Here)service with Chris, to help you plan your dream garden! We take everything into consideration when designing, such as your plant preferences, the soil type, the amount of sun your garden receives, your local council requirements, and many other things that you would not even think mattered! If you spend over $300 you can get FREE DELIVERY to Metro Melbourne and major regional centers!
Summer is actually a great time to plant trees, shrubs, flowers provided the temperatures stay below 30 degrees. Here at the nursery, we plant and transplant thousands of plants during this time as the warm temperatures, combined with a good supply of water and the right nutrition, cause amazing growth and big bushy plants in no time. However, proper considerations and care must be taken in order to get the best results for your plants during this time, as we all know those hot Melbourne summer days can be real doozies!
What is your garden type?
The most popular styles are Coastal, Formal, Cottage, Japanese, Native and Tropical. (Click on links to view plants in each category). We currently have a stunning variety of gorgeous plants in the nursery to create any type of garden you wish.
What we have in store for you!
Garden essentials: Top 8 most popular plants!
There are some plants that are just proven winners. They are hardy plants that are easy to take care of and thrive in a variety of conditions. Ideal for those looking for a fantastic garden within a certain budget.
Weeping trees are a stunning feature in almost any garden. They add interest to the landscape all year long with their long weeping branches that sway gracefully in the wind. They soothe the mind and evoke feelings of serenity We have the most amazing range of weeping trees for your garden in the store right now!
Here are the best evergreen hedge and screening options to block out the neighbors! These do not shed their leaves in winter and give you year-round privacy. They are generally fast growers.
Trailing/Cascadingplants have long, trailing stems. Growing them in pots hanging from the ceiling or sitting on a shelf is a great way to show them off, enabling their stems to cascade down for dramatic effect. They also make great additions to pot planters and retaining walls.
There are some tricky spots in the garden that tend to get only a few hours of sunlight or only filtered light. Here are a few plants that are perfect to add life and colour to those shady spots.
Now that we are in summer, flowers in the garden are competing with each other for the attention of pollinators. That means brilliant colors, big blooms, and an abundance of nectar and pollen accompanied by sweet scents to attract the bees and butterflies. Geraniums,Scaevolas, daisies, Echinacea, Salvias, Petunia, and many more are in full bloom right now.
• We have a fantastic selection of potted colour in store right now that are already flowering or just about to flower. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting textures and colors all Summer long.
• Companion plants: To naturally deter many pests such as aphids and slugs and to attract the beneficials, here are a few flowers that you can plant right now: marigolds, sunflowers, asters, delphiniums, foxgloves, snapdragons, cosmos. Nasturtiums and marigolds are the best companions for Summer tomatoes and capsicums.
Roses
Roses are blooming beautifully all over Melbourne at this time of the year. Now is a great time to choose which one is your favorite in terms of color and scent, so make sure you check out our range of roses in full bloom now. It is also a good time to feed your roses with some balanced, bloom or rose fertilizer. Keep an eye out for aphids that love to feed on the fresh new flower buds. A good tip for more blooms on your roses is to dead-head the spent flowers regularly as this encourages more flowers to form. Avoid overhead watering as this can cause fungal problems. Watering early in the morning is better than in the evening. Once established, roses are quite drought hardy so water deeply only every so often. Most varieties are available in several “forms”, or shapes, such as bush form, climbing form, carpet roses, weeping roses, and as standard (lollipop shape).
Going into your garden, picking your own fruit, and enjoying it as fresh as it can be is really a special feeling. If you choose a dwarf variety, you do not always need much space for them, as they are happy to grow in big pots and you can trim them to your preferred size. Now if you have space, by all means, plant a full-size variety and put them in the ground, and let them grow into bountiful monsters! Many fruit trees tend to drop immature fruit when it is too hot and the soil lacks moisture. So make sure you keep them very well watered in January. They usually tend to keep only a certain number of fruits. • Here is a nice selection of fruit and nut trees that we currently have in store.
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety in 5L pots! Citrus trees have been hard to get and in high demand for the past year, but this new batch is full of big, bushy, and healthy plants. These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
With last year’s lockdown, so many of us were stuck at home and we started gardening to keep ourselves busy and make the best use of our time. Many were new gardeners with little experience and did their best to take care of their new plants. Customers shared their success stories with us, but there was also a bit of disappointment from plants dying, despite everything being done correctly. When this happens you can be discouraged from planting again. Gardening is a series of trials and errors, and we learn from mistakes, or from the experience of others. Some plants are very hardy and tolerate a wide range of conditions, while some are very delicate and require near perfect conditions. Here are some of the main points to keep in mind that will ensure successful planting.
Soil is a mixture of organic matter, minerals, gases, liquids, and organisms that together support life. The right mix of those components will determine if a plant will struggle or thrive where it is planted. If you have good soil on your property, consider yourself very lucky! Unfortunately, most newly developed properties in Victoria do not have good soil, which results in poor growth, stunted plants, or even the dreaded slow death of your precious leafy investments. The first thing to know is the type of soil that you have and its pH value. Soil types affect plant growth due to their properties such as water and nutrient retention, acidity/alkalinity, microbial and fungal activity just to name a few. The most common soil types in Victoria are: Gravel or sand –Soil fails to compact and runs through your fingers. Loam –Soil compacts slightly but still fragments through your fingers. Clay –Soil remains as a solid mass. There are a few methods to help you determine what soil you have such as the Jar method or the Ribbon method. (Click on links to read more) An ideal soil would be made up of 45% minerals (sand, clay, silt), 5-10 % organic material (plant and animal), 25% air, and 25% water. The ideal mineral portion would be a loam (Loam is made up of 20 – 30% clay, 30 – 40% silt and 30 – 40% sand). Once you know your soil type, you can either choose plants that grow in these conditions or you can amend the soil to the requirements of the plants that you want. Plants that grow well in Sandy soil: This includes many of the Banksias and Grevilleas, Eremophilas, Kangaroo Paws, Westringias, Correas, Waratahs, Flannel Flowers and Callistemons.
Soil Ph is another very important factor to look into.
A soil’s degree of acidity and alkalinity is determined by measuring its pH. pH measurements are expressed as a number on a scale from 0 to 14 where 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acid, and greater than 7 is alkaline. Most soils have pH values between 3.5 and 10. In higher rainfall areas the natural pH of soils typically ranges from 5-7, whereas in drier areas the range is 6.5-9. Soils with pH values of 6.5 to 7.5 are referred to as ‘neutral’, which is the ideal pH for most plants. Those with a pH less than 6.5 are acidic, and soils with a pH less than 5.5 are considered strongly acidic. To determine the pH of your soil, get a soil pH testing kit. It is much easier to use than you may think. Plants that grow in alkaline soils will grow in acid soils, but the reverse will not work. Most plants around the southern and eastern part of Australia grow in acid soils, however, in inland Australia the soils are more likely to be alkaline. The soil pH is very important to your plants’ growth. If the pH is wrong, certain nutrients are made unavailable to your plant. For example, if the soil is too alkaline nutrients such as Iron and Manganese are not in a form that is available for uptake by the plant. Your plant could be showing Iron deficiencies, so you apply Iron Chelate to fix the problem but little do you know that Iron will never make it into the plant because the pH of the soil is wrong! The acidity of soil can be reduced by adding Lime, and alkalinity reduced by adding elemental Sulfur, Aluminium Sulfate, or Iron Sulfate for faster results. To ensure the desired soil pH level is maintained, these treatments will have to be repeated at regular intervals and they are a gradual process, which can take up to a year to achieve the desired results. As the plants absorb the nutrients, the soil will gradually revert to its natural state. Therefore, you will have to continually treat the soil. In some situations, it’s best to just plant what is suitable for that particular soil type and save yourself time and money! Here is a map showing the surface soil pH from Agriculture Victoria. Click here to read more about soil pH in Victoria.
Saline & Sodic Soils (Salty soils) are also a significant problem in Victoria.
There are two types of salty soils: Saline soils and Sodic soils. Saline soil is a soil with a high content of soluble salts that can draw moisture out of the plant through osmosis and cause dehydration. This can cause a decline in yield or even the death of the plant. Sodic soil has high levels of exchangeable sodium that cause the soil particles to disperse instead of clumping together. This causes the soil to become less permeable, not allowing water and air to get through to the roots of the plant or allow excess salt to dissolve and be washed away. Saline soils commonly have a pH below 8.5, whereas Sodic soils have a pH between 8.5 and 10. So from our previous pH segment, you will know that a pH level this high can severely affect your plant’s growth! It is estimated that at least 59.0 % of Victorian soils are salty. If you are buying soil in bulk from a supplier, it is always good to take a sample for a pH test and also a few buckets worth for planting a few plants in, to see how well they grow. Alternatively, most soils in bags, from trusted brands, are the best option, although quite costly if you have a big area to fill up.
Correct the pH gradually by adding acidic soil mix, elemental sulfur, composted pine bark(not fresh), and lots of organic matter. Preferably sheep, cow manure, or compost. Not mushroom compost and not chicken compost, which are too alkaline. Finally to make the soil more active with microorganisms, give it a good soak with water, then apply some liquid fertilizer like Charlie Carp, Gogo juice, or compost tea as these will introduce beneficial bacteria into your soil. These bacteria will break down the sulfur and normalize your pH over the course of 6 months to 1 year.
• The best philosophy is that healthy soils will produce healthy plants. “Feed the soil and not the plant” is the holy mantra of organic gardening. Improve the growth, health, and yield of your plants by nurturing the soil as an alternative to using fertilizers. You can do that by restoring the beneficial microbial activity in your soil with some compost tea and top dress your soil with compost, manure, and also some blood and bone meal.
• Turning the soil overis not recommended as it disturbs the delicate worm tunnels and fungal networks called mycorrhizae, which take time to build and are important for good soil-plant symbiosis. Tilling is only recommended to amend very bad soil.
• It is best to give some liquid feed to Summer flowering annuals every couple of weeks with a complete liquid fertilizer, to encourage healthy and vigorous new growth. You can also add some slow-release granular fertilizer that will feed your plants over a period of 3 to 6 months.
• In addition to the normal microbial-dominated compost, feed your soil with a good mix of fungally dominated compost, made mostly from composted woody material such as woodchips, bark, etc, and Fungal compost encourages soil fungal networks called mycorrhiza, which are tiny white filament root-like structures that permit the plant to obtain additional moisture and nutrients. This is particularly important in the uptake of phosphorus, one of the major nutrients required by plants. When mycorrhizae are present, plants are less susceptible to drought stress. And also if you see mushrooms pop up in your garden, it means that your soil is healthy!
• Finally, you can plant nitrogen-fixing plants such as Vetch (Vicia sativa), Comfrey (Symphytum), and White Clover (Trifolium repens). These are great for a chop-and-drop or turning over back into the topsoil. When they decay they feed the worms and microbes to produce humus, which is a dark, organic material, that greatly improves the soil.
We all know about that overly dramatic plant that wilts when you forget to water it for one day! It just goes to show how vital water is to healthy plant growth. Not too much, not too little, plants need the right amount, at the right frequency.
Here are 10 tips for better watering:
• Focus on theroot zone. Remember that it’s the roots that need access to water, not the leaves. Wetting the foliage is a waste of water and can promote the spread of disease. • Water only when needed. Automatic watering timers are especially useful; just make sure to watch the weather, and reduce frequency when rainfall is abundant, and increase the duration of watering when it is very hot. Too much moisture can be just as damaging to plants as too little. • Water deeply and thoroughly. Lawns and annuals concentrate their roots in the top 6″ of soil; for perennials, shrubs, and trees, it’s the top 12″. In heavy soil, it may take hours for the water to percolate down 6-12″. Use your finger or a shovel to check the progress.
• Do a Soil percolation test, to determine how fast your soil drains water downwards and determine if it requires any amendment, and adjust your watering according to the results. Remember that clay soil for example has poor drainage and causes waterlogging, which kills plants by causing root rot.
• Water in the morning. If you do get moisture on the leaves, this gives them time to dry out. It’s much more difficult for plant diseases to get a foothold when the foliage is dry. • Use the right tool. For efficient watering at the root zone, use a soaker hose or an even more precise drip irrigation system instead of a sprinkler. Make sure to calculate the flow rate of your dripper and the right duration to ensure that your plants are getting the right amount of water. • Replace your 12mm common garden hose with an 18mm professional one, for a higher flow rate and more effective watering that actually penetrates to the root of the plant instead of just wetting the surface. Wet topsoil does not mean that the water is going to where it is most needed. • Know the watering requirements of your plants. Some plants need a lot of water, while some plants are drought tolerant, once established. Drought tolerant means, once established, the plant will be able to tolerate periods of low watering or dryness. • Apply a soil wetting agent if you have water repellent or hydrophobic soil. It will help with water absorption, particularly if you have sandy soil or pots that are filled with potting mix. Wetting agents break down the waxy residue build-up that is caused by lack of water in the soil. If you want to use a water-storing gel, remember, it will eventually dry out, so it is imperative that you continue watering. • If you are going away for a few days, move your potted plants to a morning sun or shaded area, and make sure to give them a good drenching. Fill up the saucer with water for an extra supply. Also, look into wicking systems, or drip bottles for automatic watering.
• When the summer heat comes round, it is important to have a nice thick layer of mulch on your soil to keep some moisture in the ground and also keep the roots of your plants cool. Mulch should be used to cover exposed dirt around plants for weed reduction and water evaporation control. However, the most common mistake when using mulch is spreading too thin or too thick around the plants. The suggested depth of mulch is 2-3” for new garden beds. This will reduce the frequency of watering and prevent your plants to go through heat and drought stress.
• If you are putting mulch for the first time, choose the right ones as they slowly change the PH of the soil when they break down. Pine bark mulch creates acidity when breaking down, so it is perfect for Azaleas or Camellias, whereas pea straw or sugarcane are recommended for veggie beds.
• Make sure to not mix in mulch with the soil, especially wood chips, as these rob nitrogen from the soil which is precious for plant growth. Wood chips are to be used as surface mulch only. • Do not put mulch too close to the trunk but rather around it, as this will encourage the roots to grow outwards to find water and make them stronger. Also, make sure to give the soil a good soak before applying mulch and then water the mulch. Dry mulch absorbs moisture from the ground, which is the opposite of its intended purpose! When watering over mulch, remember you will need some extra water to make sure it penetrates through the mulch and into the soil.
The sun is essential for plants to grow. It provides light energy plants need to convert into food by the process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the conversion of carbon dioxide, water and minerals into organic compounds that the plant uses to grow. During this process, the plant also produces a by-product: oxygen! Some plants need full sun to thrive and others can cope with part to full shade. It is important to observe the amount of sunlight and shade your garden receives to determine what plants would grow well. Within your garden, you are likely to have a range of micro-climates. The orientation of your house and other structures create different conditions on your site. This will affect the availability of light, warmth, and water for plants. In Australia, each day the Sun moves in an arc that is always tilted at 32° to the vertical and with the highest point towards the north. Its path and highest point change during the seasons.
Image Nick-Lomb
North Facing Garden The sun spends most of its time in the northern sky as it travels from east to west. In winter it stays low in the sky, so you want to maximize the amount of sunlight coming through from that direction. It is the ideal spot for plants that love full sun and great for indoor plants by the window.
South Facing Garden A south-facing wall gets the most rain and will collect the wettest weather and is more protected from the warmer drying winds and sun from the north. If you have any plants that are not drought tolerant and prefer a bit of shade, this is an ideal spot for them. Many of the plants you find being sold as indoor plants are adapted to these shady areas.
East Facing Garden An east-facing garden suits many plants that enjoy the milder morning sun but are vulnerable to the afternoon heat during summer. As most of our weather comes from the west, the east side can miss out on getting adequate natural rainfall. So, keep an eye on plants there, to make sure it doesn’t get too dry, particularly beneath the eaves of the house. Growing dry tolerant plants here would be wise.
West Facing Garden Most of the weather comes from the west, including warm north westerlies and cool south-westerlies. It is also the direction of the harsh afternoon summer sun. Melbourne’s summer afternoon sun is much more brutal than most would realize. On days above 30 degrees, it is very hot and dry, causing some plants to die in a matter of hours if they don’t have sufficient access to water. This is where you will most likely want some protection. Taller buffering shrubs or trees that can screen the home from the more aggressive weather are a good idea.
Most problems with plants can be fixed by reading the health of your plants, and taking prompt action if there are any problems. Take a closer look at the foliage and its underside. Is it looking as healthy as it can be, or are there signs of deficiencies? Most of them can be easily fixed with some good supplementation of nutrients or watering with some trace minerals. Click here to view a chart of the various deficiencies in plants.
Warm weather and humid conditions create the perfect mix for a host of pests and diseases with plants. Identify them early, treat them, and keep your plants healthy all through summer.
• Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plant problems. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants. A simple remedy is a good spray of the following mix: 1 tablespoon baking soda with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap in 1 gallon of water. Another option is a mix of 1 part milk with 10 parts of water.
• Aphids, thrips, and mites. With the warm weather, these sap-sucking insects find their way into our garden to feast on all the new growth. If there are not too many, you can leave them to help build the beneficial insect population that will then take care of the bad bugs for you later on. Adult aphids eat thrips and mites. Ladybugs also eat aphids, thrips, mites, and whitefly. If you have an infestation, on the other hand, you can make some homemade aphid spray to apply under the leaves of affected plants. Mix 2 tsp vegetable oil, 1 tsp dishwashing liquid, and some garlic cloves crushed, mixed in 1lt of water, and left to infuse overnight. This is completely safe for other beneficial insects. Also, think of planting some beneficial insect plants that will attract ladybirds and they will take care of aphids for you. A favorite plant for ladybirds is the Angelica herb. • For ants you could sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on the ground where there is a lot of ant activity but only when it is dry. You will have to reapply it after it has rained. It is a natural organic control method that will not harm other insects.
• Psyllids are tiny (native) sap-sucking insects that are occasionally referred to as plant lice. They congregate in large numbers and can disfigure the new growth primarily on their chosen host plant of many Lilly pilly and Eucalyptus species. They are almost always found on the underside of the new foliage. They usually target unhealthy and vulnerable plants so make sure to keep your plants fertilized and as healthy as possible. New foliage can show signs of dimpling or bubbling and give the impression that it is a disease. Older foliage is often left untroubled. Although psyllid attack can occur anytime between early spring and mid – Autumn. The main times for control is October through March. This coincides with the breeding cycle of the insect. You can remove affected leaves and spray the plant with some natural products such as horticultural oils or neem oil. Ladybirds and lacewing insects are natural predators to psyllids so encourage them in your garden by planting some beneficial plants such as Angelica, dill, coriander, etc.
• Keep an eye out on your Rose plants for common diseases such as black spot, rust, and mildew. If you have noticed any fungal disease in the past on your plants, you can spray them with some organic copper-based fungicides.
Deadheading, & Weeding
• Deadhead the spent blooms on your summer flowering plants such as roses, cosmos, foxgloves, etc as this will encourage a second flush of flowers for the next month or so.
• Stay on top of the weeds. With the summer heat, weeds steal water from other plants, so make sure to pull them out by the root and mulch over. It is easier to get to them while they are still small so get onto them quickly! The best method for weeding is to weed after it has rained. Rain causes the soil to loosen, making it easier to get the whole root system of the weed out. It is important to get the whole root system and not just snap the top of the weed off. Snapping the top of the weed off basically encourages it to grow more! For bigger weeds like Dandelion, use a kitchen butter knife to get down into the soil next to the weed. It causes less disturbance to the soil than digging or pulling them out.
That’s it for this month!
Wishing you all the best in the garden! Keep smiling, be happy and as usual, stay safe lovely people 🙂
Gardening January 2022 Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Hello Hello, dear gardening friends! December officially marks the start of summer here in Victoria and is the most exciting month of the year! Long summer evenings, garden parties, friends over for dinner, school holidays, vacation home getaways, and especially Christmas and New Year celebrations! There are beautiful flowers blooming everywhere right now such as Jacarandas, Hydrangeas, Flame Trees, Daisies, and so many others, keeping the bees buzzing around all day long! The veggie patches are starting to provide us with the first zucchinis, tomatoes, and peppers, to cook some homegrown goodness! Fruit trees such as raspberries, blueberries, cherries, and mulberries are loaded with delicious fruit to tempt our taste buds!
Garden Designs are back!
There are very limited spaces available. Here are the available timeslots that you can choose from after filling out the Garden Design Questionnaire.
It is the season for delicious local cherries and they taste amazing. Have you ever considered growing your own? They are so easy to grow and they taste even better when harvested and eaten fresh! Make sure to cover them with a net, because the birds love them too!
🎄Potted Christmas Trees are in store Now!🎁🎅 If you prefer the look, feel, and smell of a real tree and if you can’t bear the thought of cutting down a tree just to use it as a decoration, why not use a live potted Christmas tree or plant!? We have a lovely selection of Pines and Spruces that you can use as your live Christmas tree for the next 10 years! They are slow-growing, easy to maintain, and can be kept in pots for a long time!
Agapanthus is a very hardy and popular strappy leaved plant in Australia. They have lovely light green leaves and tall floral displays in summer. There are many varieties available, from white, mauve, blue, pink, and even black. Great for border plantings, pots or to soften some harsh edging in the garden. Make sure to deadhead them to prevent seed spreading!
Bougainvilleas are tropical vine-like shrubs that are quite drought tolerant, love the sun, and pack a huge punch of color. plants are vigorous growers that can become overgrown if not kept in check, but they offer a dazzling color show!
Frangipanis have to be the ultimate tropical plant. They evoke thoughts of sunny blue skies, relaxing by a pool. They have beautiful flowers with a delightful fragrance. Being small trees that make excellent feature trees with their striking umbrella shape. They have small noninvasive roots they can be planted near buildings and swimming pools without any problems. They also do very well in pots. Frangipanis mostly flowers from summer to autumn and come in shades of white, yellow, pink, and red!
The Jacaranda tree puts on a breathtaking floral display. Its vivid lilac-blue clusters of trumpet-shaped blossoms appear in the summer, later falling to the earth carpeting the ground with a mass of color. It is said that if you are walking underneath the Jacaranda tree and one of the trumpet blossoms falls on your head you will be favored by fortune.!
Prized for their glossy green foliage and showy clusters of blooms, these fabulous plants are especially suited to shady areas of the garden. We have a wide variety of colors in store!
These are thick and leathery in appearance, often deep green in color and extremely luscious. If you set these gorgeous flowers in the right conditions, they require little ongoing care and will bloom abundantly.
Hibiscus plants are known for their large, colorful flowers. These blossoms can make a fantastic addition to any home or garden. They flower profusely and come in a big variety of colours.
We have a fantastic MAPLE SHOW happening at the nursery with over 20 varieties of maples of various shapes, colors, and sizes! This is a great time to choose your maple as they are at their best right now, putting on an amazing display, with their spectacular array of foliage types and colors.
Most roses are blooming beautifully at this time of the year. Now is a great time to choose which one is your favorite in terms of color and scent, so make sure you check out our range of roses in full bloom now. It is also a good time to feed your roses with some balanced, bloom, or rose fertilizer. Keep an eye out for aphids that love to feed on the fresh new growth. A good tip for more blooms on your roses is to dead-head the spent flowers regularly as this encourages more flowers. Avoid overhead watering as this can cause fungal problems. Watering early in the morning is better than in the evening. Once established, roses are quite drought hardy so water deeply only every so often. They are available in several forms such as bush form, climbing form, carpet roses, weeping roses and as standard (ball on a stick).
• We have a fantastic selection of perennial flowering plants in store right now that are already flowering or just about to flower. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting textures and colors all Summer long.
• Companion Flower: Nasturtiums and marigolds are the best companions for Summer tomatoes and capsicums, as they deter many pests such as aphids and slugs.
Native plants are very popular right now as they can easily be included in any type of garden. Native plants have so many advantages as they have lower maintenance requirements, are easy to grow, and quite hardy. They require less water and are wildlife-friendly. If you want a fully Australian native landscape, then a natural design and layout work best. Crushed granite on curved fluid pathways, timber sleepers for edging beds, and rustic garden sculptures all fit together very well. The Facebook page Australian Native Plant Enthusiasts forum is great for some native plant inspiration and one particular garden that always catches my attention is the Rosella Rise Native Garden of Deb MC. It has such a beautiful combination of plants, colors, and textures that it would inspire anyone to start a native garden! Be sure to click on the link to see more of that amazing Australian Native garden. To create such a paradise, you can use a variety of grasses, desert plants, shrubs, ground cover, succulents, herbs, food plants, fruit and berries to create a diverse Australian native garden.
Going into your garden, picking your own fruit, and enjoying them as fresh as they can be, is really a special feeling. If you choose a dwarf variety, you do not always need much space for them, as they are happy to grow in big pots and you can trim them to your preferred size. Now if you have space, by all means, plant a full-size variety and put them in the ground, and let them grow into bountiful monsters! You could then perhaps exchange or sell your surplus produce!
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety of 4L pots that are on sale right now! Citrus trees have been hard to get and in high demand this year, but this batch is new. These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
• Berries. Here is a great selection of the most popular and rare varieties, ideal for small spaces. These are in limited quantities, so better hurry up.
• Summer/Spring veggies such as tomato, peppers, squash, eggplants, zucchini, chilies, and basil can now be safely planted out in the ground! It is warm enough for them to grow beautifully. Remember to water them in properly with some seaweed fertilizers, which will help them settle in their new spot. See the full list here.
• Before planting your summer crops, dig in a generous amount of compost and manure in your veggie patch as these plants are quite heavy feeders. If you have experienced blossom end rot on your tomatoes in the past, it could be that your soil is deficient in calcium, and adding some garden lime will fix this issue. Just be aware that garden lime also raises the pH level of soils high in acidity, to make them more alkaline.
• Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, rocket, endive, silverbeet, mustard greens, and celery will all grow well in the garden right now until the early hot days of Summer are here. If you have limited space, you may want to favor Summer veggies instead and leave the leafy greens for the cooler months. You can also get creative and plant lettuce/rocket under or around your tomatoes/capsicums as they usually have shallow root systems that will not interfere too much. Planting them every couple of weeks will ensure a steady supply. See full list here.
• Culinary herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots on your balcony or your patio. They will grow well in shaded, partly shaded, and sunny spots. You can harvest them and they will simply grow back. You can also chop them up, dry them and create your own mixed herbs for later use. Once you start planting your own herbs, you will never buy them at the supermarket again.
• For your veggie patch, if you have very poor soil, mix in generous amounts of rich compost, manure, and also some blood and bone meal. If your soil is already quite good, instead of turning it over, try top dressing. Turning the soil over when you already have healthy soil will disturb the delicate worm and microbial systems, which take time to build and are important for good plant development.
• Improve the growth, health, and yield of your plants by nurturing the soil as an alternative to using fertilizers. You can do that by restoring the beneficial microbial activity in your soil with some compost tea.
• Put some rich compost or well-aged manure around your fruit trees, to give them the well-needed boost for the Summer fruiting season.
• It is best to give some liquid feed to Summer flowering annuals every couple of weeks with a complete liquid fertilizer, to encourage healthy and vigorous new growth. You can also add some slow-release granular fertilizer that will feed your plants over a period of 3 to 6 months.
• When the summer heat comes round, it is important to have a nice thick layer of mulch on your soil to keep some moisture in the ground and also keep the roots of your plants cool. This will reduce the frequency of watering and prevent your plants to go through heat and drought stress. If you are putting mulch for the first time, make sure to choose the right ones as they change the PH of the soil when they break down. Pine bark mulch creates acidity when breaking down, so it is perfect for Azaleas or Camellias, whereas straw or sugarcane are recommended for veggie beds. Do not put mulch too close to the stems but rather around it, as this will encourage the roots to grow outwards to find water and make them stronger. Also, make sure to give the soil a good soak before mulching. When watering over mulch, it needs some extra water to make sure it penetrates into the soil.
After the beautiful first spring blooms, many of the flowering perennials are now covered with spent flowers, which are busy producing seeds inside. Some plants have a big flush of flowers at once, such as catmint, while others flower more consistently over the flowering period, such as daisies. The longer you leave spent blooms on the plant, the more resources or nutrients they utilize to produce seeds, and the plant will feel that it has completed its life cycle, i.e producing seeds to ensure the next generation. The best thing to do is to remove spent blooms as soon as the flower petals shrivel up. This will encourage more flowers to pop out.
Pests & Disease
Now that there are lots of new shoots and seedlings, coupled with some warm weather and a few showers here and there, there will be more insects in the garden. The humid weather is perfect for them to proliferate, feed, and cause damage to plants.
• Aphids, thrips, and mites. With the warm weather, these sap-sucking insects find their way into our garden to feast on all the new growth. If there are not too many, you can leave them to help build the beneficial insect population that will then take care of the bad bugs for you later on. Adult aphids eat thrips and mites and ladybugs also eat aphids, thrips, mites, and whitefly If you have an infestation, on the other hand, you can make some homemade aphid spray to apply under the leaves of affected plants. Mix 2 tsp vegetable oil, 1 tsp dishwashing liquid, and some garlic cloves crushed, mixed in 1lt of water, and left to infuse overnight. This is completely safe for other beneficial insects. Also, think of planting some beneficial insect plants that will attract ladybirds and they will take care of aphids for you. A favorite plant for ladybirds is the Angelica herb. • For ants you could sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on the ground where there is a lot of ant activity but only when it is dry. You will have to reapply it after it has rained. It is a natural organic control method that will not harm other insects.
• Azalea Lace Bug damage to azaleas normally occurs on the leaves and will look like silvery, white, or yellow spots. This is caused by these azalea insects, literally sucking small sections of the leaf dry and killing that section of the leaf. As these azalea leaf pests move on across the leaf, more and more spots will appear. These azalea insect problems are best avoided in the first place. The azalea lace bug tends to attack plants that are already weakened due to poor fertilizing or watering, so make sure to take proper care of your plants. If your azalea shrub is already infested with these azalea leaf pests, you can try one of two methods for getting rid of them. The first is chemical controls and the other is organic control. Chemical control involves using insecticidal soaps (some of which are organic). Most off-the-shelf insecticides will effectively kill azalea lace bugs. For organic control of these azalea insects, you can try several methods. The first method to try is to spray the plant down with a sprayer on the hose. This can knock the pests of the plant and disorient them enough to prevent re-infestation. • Codling Moth attacks Apples and Pears. The moth lays its eggs on leaves and immature fruit as flowering finishes. The hatching caterpillars then burrow into the fruit and eat it from the inside. Yates Success Ultra is a good product to control these. You can also use organic control methods such as neem oil or even physical barriers such as fruit bags. Welcoming beneficial insects in your garden will also help with the control of codling moths. • Keep an eye out on your Rose plants for common diseases such as black spot, rust, and mildew. If you have noticed any fungal disease in the past on your plants, now is a good time to spray them with some organic copper-based fungicides.
That’s it for this month!
Wishing you a very merry Christmas and happy holidays!
Hello Hello, dear gardening friends! It is already November and the weather is looking fantastic here in Melbourne with warm days, clear blue skies but also the occasional shower! With the lock-down finally lifted, we were so happy to see all of you back in store these past few weeks! Traditionally Cup weekend has been used as a marker to plant out tomatoes and other summer crops. Callistemon, Geraniums, and roses are blooming beautifully, while Hydrangeas and Agapanthus are getting ready to bloom in the next couple of weeks. Summer veggies like tomatoes are growing very well and will soon require stakes to keep them from falling over and peppers are getting taller every day. From clipping back your spring-flowering plants to mulching, there is always a lot to do, so let’s see what can be done in the garden right now.
Do not miss out as these are only while stocks last! Only one free plant per person/purchase and does not accumulate.You can still get Free delivery for Metro and major regional areas together with your Free plant! These are valid only for In-Store and Over phone orders!
Roses
Most roses are blooming beautifully at this time of the year. Now is a great time to choose which one is your favorite in terms of color and scent, so make sure you check out our range of roses in full bloom now. It is also a good time to feed your roses with some balanced, bloom, or rose fertilizer. Keep an eye out for aphids that love to feed on the fresh new growth. A good tip for more blooms on your roses is to dead-head the spent flowers regularly as this encourages more flowers. Avoid overhead watering as this can cause fungal problems. Watering early in the morning is better than in the evening. Once established, roses are quite drought hardy so water deeply only every so often. They are available in several forms such as bush form, climbing form, carpet roses, weeping roses and as standard (ball on a stick).
• We have a fantastic selection of perennial flowering plants in store right now that are already flowering or just about to flower. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting textures and colors all Summer long.
• Companion Flower: Here are a few flowers that you can plant from seed right now: marigolds, salvias, petunias, sunflowers, asters, delphiniums, foxgloves, snapdragons, cosmos, and dianthus. Nasturtiums and marigold are the best companions for Summer tomatoes and capsicums, as they deter many pests such as aphids and slugs.
Native plants are very popular right now as they can easily be included in any type of garden. Native plants have so many advantages as they have lower maintenance requirements, are easy to grow, and quite hardy. They require less water and are wildlife-friendly. If you want a fully Australian native landscape, then a natural design and layout work best. Crushed granite on curved fluid pathways, timber sleepers for edging beds, and rustic garden sculptures all fit together very well. The Facebook page Australian Native Plant Enthusiasts forum is great for some native plant inspiration and one particular garden that always catches my attention is the Rosella Rise Native Garden of Deb MC. It has such a beautiful combination of plants, colors, and textures that it would inspire anyone to start a native garden! Be sure to click on the link to see more of that amazing Australian Native garden. To create such a paradise, you can use a variety of grasses, desert plants, shrubs, ground cover, succulents, herbs, food plants, fruit and berries to create a diverse Australian native garden.
Going into your garden, picking your own fruit, and enjoying them as fresh as they can be, is really a special feeling. If you choose a dwarf variety, you do not always need much space for them, as they are happy to grow in big pots and you can trim them to your preferred size. Now if you have space, by all means, plant a full-size variety and put them in the ground, and let them grow into bountiful monsters! You could then perhaps exchange or sell your surplus produce!
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety of 4L pots that are on sale right now! Citrus trees have been hard to get and in high demand this year, but this batch is new. These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
• Berries. Here is a great selection of the most popular and rare varieties, ideal for small spaces. These are in limited quantities, so better hurry up.
• Summer/Spring veggies such as tomato, peppers, squash, eggplants, zucchini, chilies, and basil can now be safely planted out in the ground! It is warm enough for them to grow beautifully. Remember to water them in properly with some seaweed fertilizers, which will help them settle in their new spot. See the full list here.
1. Work some rich compost in the soil and supplement with some calcium to avoid blossom end rot. 2. Plant your tomatoes at least 45 cm apart and bury the stems deeply. 3. Remove the bottom leaves and pinch off the side suckers. 4. Fasten them to a stake or in a tomato cage. 5. Mulch the soil and water regularly 6. Plant some companion plants around your tomatoes such as basil, chives, borage, nasturtiums, and marigolds as they deter pests.
• Before planting your summer crops, dig in a generous amount of compost and manure in your veggie patch as these plants are quite heavy feeders. If you have experienced blossom end rot on your tomatoes in the past, it could be that your soil is deficient in calcium, and adding some garden lime will fix this issue. Just be aware that garden lime also raises the pH level of soils high in acidity, to make them more alkaline.
• Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, rocket, endive, silverbeet, mustard greens, and celery will all grow well in the garden right now until the early hot days of Summer are here. If you have limited space, you may want to favor Summer veggies instead and leave the leafy greens for the cooler months. You can also get creative and plant lettuce/rocket under or around your tomatoes/capsicums as they usually have shallow root systems that will not interfere too much. Planting them every couple of weeks will ensure a steady supply. See full list here.
• Culinary herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots on your balcony or your patio. They will grow well in shaded, partly shaded, and sunny spots. You can harvest them and they will simply grow back. You can also chop them up, dry them and create your own mixed herbs for later use. Once you start planting your own herbs, you will never buy them at the supermarket again.
If you prefer the look, feel, and smell of a real tree and if you can’t bear the thought of cutting down a tree just to use it for a few weeks, why not use a live potted Christmas tree and keep it for many years!! More products will be added in the coming weeks!
Here are some tips for your potted live Christmas trees on how to take care of them so as they can be used over and over again for the next 10 years!
• Sunlight – It’s recommended that you keep your potted tree near a window that receives sunlight but has protection from the hot afternoon heat.
• Lack of sunlight – If the spot where you will place your Christmas tree is where it will not receive any natural sunlight or reflected light, you should bring it indoors as late as possible. The weekend before Christmas is ideal, and it’s advised not to keep living trees in the house any longer than 20 days. But if it does receive some sunlight indoors, it can stay a bit longer.
• Watering – As with most houseplants, watering is the most important aspect of caring for them. Too much and your potted tree will die of ‘wet feet’, too little and the leaves will turn brown and fall. So water sparingly and do a simple moisture check by stick your finger into the dirt as far down as you can and see if the soil is dry. When you remove your finger, any soil sticking to it indicates moisture. When your finger comes out relatively clean, it’s time to water. Always check that the container has good drainage and some sort of saucer underneath to catch any excess water.
• Sunburn – After you’ve used it as your Christmas tree put it out in the shade for a couple of months, then slowly move it back into the sun around Autumn. If you just put it back in the full summer sun directly after being indoors for a long time, the leaves will get sunburnt and turn brown.
• Root-Bound – After the Christmas period, check the roots of your tree. If the root-ball is getting too thick, loosen them up and plant your tree in a slightly bigger pot. If it is not a dense root-ball, they can be left in the same pot.
• Prune and shape your tree in winter to keep it neat and tidy. Be gentle with the pruning as they grow very slowly and bad pruning can take years to fix.
• Fertilise your tree at the start of spring with a balanced fertilizer to give it a good boost during its growing season and make it look lush for Christmas.
Pruning, Repotting & Weeding
• Spring flowering bulbs should be pulled out of the ground, trimmed of any shoots and excess roots, the soil is gently brushed off and the bulb is let dry. Then you can store them in a paper bag in a cool dry place over summer and autumn until it is time to plant them again.
• If your potted plants are looking overcrowded, you can always trim them or split and re-pot them into new pots. Make sure to use the right potting mix for them.
• Scraggy plants. If you have tried to revive and fertilize old and sad-looking plants to no avail, perhaps it is time to replace them. Rework the soil after pulling them out and let it settle for a week before planting a new plant there.
• Always stay on top of the weeds. With all the Spring flowers blooming and then releasing their seeds in the wind, you will see small seedlings popping up everywhere. It is easier to get them while they are still small by disturbing the topsoil and applying some mulch.
Soil, Fertilising, and Mulching
• For your veggie patch, if you have very poor soil, mix in generous amounts of rich compost, manure, and also some blood and bone meal. If your soil is already quite good, instead of turning it over, try top dressing. Turning the soil over when you already have healthy soil will disturb the delicate worm and microbial systems, which take time to build and are important for good plant development.
• Improve the growth, health, and yield of your plants by nurturing the soil as an alternative to using fertilizers. You can do that by restoring the beneficial microbial activity in your soil with some compost tea.
• Put some rich compost or well-aged manure around your fruit trees, to give them the well-needed boost for the Summer fruiting season.
• It is best to give some liquid feed to Summer flowering annuals every couple of weeks with a complete liquid fertilizer, to encourage healthy and vigorous new growth. You can also add some slow-release granular fertilizer that will feed your plants over a period of 3 to 6 months.
• When the summer heat comes round, it is important to have a nice thick layer of mulch on your soil to keep some moisture in the ground and also keep the roots of your plants cool. This will reduce the frequency of watering and prevent your plants to go through heat and drought stress. If you are putting mulch for the first time, make sure to choose the right ones as they change the PH of the soil when they break down. Pine bark mulch creates acidity when breaking down, so it is perfect for Azaleas or Camellias, whereas straw or sugarcane are recommended for veggie beds. Do not put mulch too close to the stems but rather around it, as this will encourage the roots to grow outwards to find water and make them stronger. Also, make sure to give the soil a good soak before mulching. When watering over mulch, it needs some extra water to make sure it penetrates into the soil.
Now that there are lots of new shoots and seedlings, coupled with some warm weather and a few showers here and there, there will be more insects in the garden. The humid weather is perfect for them to proliferate, feed, and cause damage to plants.
• Aphids, thrips, and mites. With the warm weather, these sap-sucking insects find their way into our garden to feast on all the new growth. If there are not too many, you can leave them to help build the beneficial insect population that will then take care of the bad bugs for you later on. Adult aphids eat thrips and mites and ladybugs also eat aphids, thrips, mites, and whitefly If you have an infestation, on the other hand, you can make some homemade aphid spray to apply under the leaves of affected plants. Mix 2 tsp vegetable oil, 1 tsp dishwashing liquid, and some garlic cloves crushed, mixed in 1lt of water, and left to infuse overnight. This is completely safe for other beneficial insects. Also, think of planting some beneficial insect plants that will attract ladybirds and they will take care of aphids for you. A favorite plant for ladybirds is the Angelica herb. • For ants you could sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on the ground where there is a lot of ant activity but only when it is dry. You will have to reapply it after it has rained. It is a natural organic control method that will not harm other insects.
• Azalea Lace Bug damage to azaleas normally occurs on the leaves and will look like silvery, white, or yellow spots. This is caused by these azalea insects, literally sucking small sections of the leaf dry and killing that section of the leaf. As these azalea leaf pests move on across the leaf, more and more spots will appear. These azalea insect problems are best avoided in the first place. The azalea lace bug tends to attack plants that are already weakened due to poor fertilizing or watering, so make sure to take proper care of your plants. If your azalea shrub is already infested with these azalea leaf pests, you can try one of two methods for getting rid of them. The first is chemical controls and the other is organic control. Chemical control involves using insecticidal soaps (some of which are organic). Most off-the-shelf insecticides will effectively kill azalea lace bugs. For organic control of these azalea insects, you can try several methods. The first method to try is to spray the plant down with a sprayer on the hose. This can knock the pests of the plant and disorient them enough to prevent re-infestation.
• Codling Moth attacks Apples and Pears. The moth lays its eggs on leaves and immature fruit as flowering finishes. The hatching caterpillars then burrow into the fruit and eat it from the inside. Yates Success Ultra is a good product to control these. You can also use organic control methods such as neem oil or even physical barriers such as fruit bags. Welcoming beneficial insects in your garden will also help with the control of codling moths. • Keep an eye out on your Rose plants for common diseases such as black spot, rust, and mildew. If you have noticed any fungal disease in the past on your plants, now is a good time to spray them with some organic copper-based fungicides.
That’s it for this month!
Wishing you all the best in the garden! Keep smiling, be happy and as usual, stay safe lovely people 🙂
Gardening November Melbourne 2021, Victoria, Australia.
October is here already with some beautiful warm sunny days alternating with some heavy showers! We are eagerly anticipating the end of the lockdowns here in Melbourne. With the incredible amount of orders we have received and the thousands of plants we have delivered in the past month, we know for a fact that many of you are making the absolute best use of this time, to reconnect with nature and enjoy some sunshine in the garden, amongst all the pretty plants. Soon we will be having people over, for a little party or a catchup barbie, and we can flaunt our amazing gardens. After all the hard work we have put in, we deserve a little praise! There are always little touch-ups to do, little nooks and crannies to fill up, with some colourful flowers perhaps, and general maintenance to do. Maybe you did not think about the garden too much over Winter, but now with the warm weather, you want to spruce it up. If that is the case, there are easy ways to make the garden pop and looking amazing without breaking too much of a sweat. Gardening works wonders for the body and the soul, so let’s get digging and planting!
Maples
This is a great time to choose your maple as they are at their best right now, putting on an amazing display, with their spectacular array of foliage types and colours. Maple trees can provide a striking focal point in your garden, be the perfect plant to put in a large container on your patio or grow into an impressive bonsai specimen. We have dozens of Japanese maple varieties in various sizes, with a large assortment of leaf shapes and colours ranging from shades of green to orange, red, purple, pink and variegated.
Grasses are starting to bounce back after naturally dying back in Winter and are looking great. Here is an exciting selection of grasses we have right now that will make any garden look amazing!Click here to see them all!
• We have a fantastic selection of perennial flowering plants in store right now that are in full bloom. You can easily plant these in your garden to make it pop with interesting textures and colors all Spring and Summer long.
• Camellias: We have a great selection of camellias in 16inch pots. These are eco-grade, meaning they are a bit scrappy, but with some light pruning and care, they will look fantastic. They are big bushy 4ft plants at a low low price. They are established plants that bloom profusely and are ideal for pots or your garden.
• Bougainvilleas are very popular for their strikingly colourful flowers that last a very long time! We have a beautiful range to choose from! Click here to see them all!
Going into your garden, picking your own fruit, and enjoying them as fresh as they can be, is really a special feeling. If you choose a dwarf variety, you do not always need much space for them, as they are happy to grow in big pots and you can trim them to your preferred size. Now if you have space, by all means, plant a full-size variety and put them in the ground and let them grow into bountiful monsters! You could then perhaps exchange or sell your surplus produce!
• Citrus plants. We have a great variety in 4L pots that are on sale right now! Citrus trees have been hard to get and in high demand this year, but this batch is new in. These are fantastic varieties that were originally destined for Victorian fruit farms, so you know they are born to produce fruit, plus they are very affordable.
• Summer/Spring veggies such as tomato, peppers, squash, eggplants, zucchini, chilies and basil can now be safely planted out in the ground! It is warm enough for them to grow beautifully. Remember to water them in properly with some seaweed fertilizers, which will help them settle in their new spot.
• Before planting your summer crops, dig in a generous amount of compost and manure in your veggie patch as these plants are quite heavy feeders. If you have experienced blossom end rot on your tomatoes in the past, it could be that your soil is deficient in calcium, and adding some garden lime will fix this issue. Just be aware that garden lime also raises the pH level of soils high in acidity, to make them more alkaline.
• If you still have remaining Winterveggies, which are surely flowering right now, time to say goodbye. You can juice the leaves or use them in your compost pile. It is not worth saving the seeds, as they will most likely not grow into the same plant you harvested them from. Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, and turnips come from the same Brassicaceae mustard family of plants and cross-pollinate each other resulting in a hybrid plant when their seed is planted.
• Leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, rocket, endive, silverbeet, mustard greens, and celery will all grow well in the garden right now until the early hot days of Summer are here. If you have limited space, you may want to favour Summer veggies instead and leave the leafy greens for the cooler months. You can also get creative and plant lettuce/rocket under or around your tomatoes/capsicums as they usually have shallow root systems that will not interfere too much. Planting them every couple of weeks will ensure a steady supply. See full list here.
• Root Veggies such as carrots, radish, turnips, parsnips, and beetroot are also great to plant right now. These are best sown directly in the soil. Young leaves can also make a tasty addition to your salads.
• Culinary herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots on your balcony or your patio. They will grow well in shaded, partly shaded and sunny spots. You can harvest them and they will simply grow back. You can also chop them up, dry them and create your own mixed herbs for later use. Once you start planting your own herbs, you will never buy them at the supermarket again.
• Herbal Teas are perfect to aid digestion, sleep, and have many other beneficial virtues. You can either dry the leaves up for storage or use them fresh.
• Spring flowering plants that have already bloomed can be deadheaded to keep them nice and tidy and encourage more blooming.
• If your potted plants are looking overcrowded, you can always trim them or split and re-pot them into new pots. Make sure to use the right potting mix for them.
• Scraggly plants. If you have tried to revive and fertilize old and sad looking plants to no avail, perhaps it is time to replace them. Rework the soil after pulling them out and let it settle for a week before planting a new plant there.
• Always stay on top of the weeds. With all the Spring flowers blooming and then releasing their seeds in the wind, you will see small seedlings popping up everywhere. It is easier to get them while they are still small by disturbing the topsoil and applying some mulch.
Soil, Fertilising, and Mulching
• For your veggie patch, if you have very poor soil, mix in generous amounts of rich compost, manure, and also some blood and bone meal. If your soil is already quite good, instead of turning it over, try top dressing. Turning the soil over when you already have healthy soil will disturb the delicate worm and microbial systems, which take time to build and are important for good plant development.
• Improve the growth, health, and yield of your plants by nurturing the soil as an alternative to using fertilizers. You can do that by restoring the beneficial microbial activity in your soil with some compost tea.
• Put some rich compost or well-aged manure around your fruit trees, to give them the well-needed boost for the Summer fruiting season.
• It is best to give some liquid feed to Summer flowering annuals every couple of weeks with a complete liquid fertilizer, to encourage healthy and vigorous new growth. You can also add some slow-release granular fertilizer that will feed your plants over a period of 3 to 6 months.
• You can put some fresh mulch around your plants to keep weeds at bay. If you are putting mulch for the first time, make sure to choose the right ones as they change the PH of the soil when they break down. Pine bark mulch creates acidity when breaking down, so it is perfect for Azaleas or Camellias, whereas straw or sugarcane are recommended for veggie beds. Do not put mulch too close to the stems but rather around it, as this will encourage the roots to grow outwards to find water and make them stronger. Also, make sure to give the soil a good soak before mulching. When watering over mulch, it needs some extra water to make sure it penetrates into the soil.
Pests & Disease
Now that there are lots of new shoots and seedlings, coupled with some warm weather and few showers here and there, there will be more insects in the garden.
• Aphids. Keep an eye out for them as they love the tender new growth. If there are not too many, you can leave them to help build the beneficial insect population that will then take care of the aphids for you later on. If you have an infestation, on the other hand, you can make some homemade aphid spray to apply under the leaves of affected plants. Mix 2 tsp vegetable oil, 1 tsp dishwashing liquid, and some garlic cloves crushed, mixed in 1lt of water, and left to infuse overnight. This is completely safe for other beneficial insects. Also, think of planting some beneficial insect plants that will attract ladybirds and they will take care of aphids for you. A favourite plant for ladybirds is the Angelica herb.• For ants you could sprinkle some diatomaceous earth on the ground where there is a lot of ant activity but only when it is dry. You will have to reapply it after it has rained. It is a natural organic control method that will not harm other insects.
• Citrus gall wasps are starting to emerge now that there is new growth. You should inspect your citrus trees and shave off of any galls you see with a potato peeler, exposing the wasps to die instead of cutting off the stems. If you cut the stems, it will encourage new growth that the wasps love. Some extra protection can be given by setting up some wasp traps. • Keep an eye out on your Rose plants for common diseases such as black spot, rust, and mildew. If you have noticed any fungal disease in the past on your plants, now is a good time to spray them with some organic copper-based fungicides.
That’s it for this month! How exciting!
Wishing you all the best in the garden! Keep smiling, be happy and as usual, stay safe lovely people 🙂
Gardening October 2021 Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Are you looking to purify the air in your home? Reduce toxins? Then check out this list of Air Purifying Indoor Plants that made the list on NASA’s Clean Air Study. Keep in mind that you need to have one plant for every 10 square metres to achieve this! Sounds like a good excuse to expand your indoor plant collection (shhh, we won’t tell anyone!)
Golden Cane Palm
The Golden Cane Palm grows up to 2 meters indoors and will provide lush green foliage and gorgeous gold-coloured bamboo stems! They like good drainage and nice bright light. Due to being a palm and more on the tropical side, they will do better in moody Victoria when indoors as they need warmer temperature and humidity, all of which Melbourne fails to provide most of the time.
Looking for a painless, straightforward and sometimes theatrical indoor plant that will give you lush green foliage with unique white flowers? Look no further! The Peace Lily is the one for you. They can handle low to brightly lit areas and are simply happy with weekly watering. They’ll tell you when they need it, they can be quite the drama queen. They are one of the most efficient air cleaners and, even better, they are super pretty and undemanding!
This toxin remover is an easy to grow indoor plant that can be trained up a pole or hanging down in a vine-like habit. The Devil’s Ivy or Pothos like protection from the sun. So that’s good news for those of you in a house that’s never heard or seen bright light!
Pothos only need watering when the soil feels dry but they can also benefit from the occasional misting or humidifier. A real good beginner’s indoor plant we say!
Toxins removed: xylene, benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene.
Lady Palm
Finally! An indoor plant that can handle the cold and dramatic ups and downs of Melbourne’s weather (unfortunately some of us are not so lucky). The Rhapis Lady Palm is a great way to bring the thick, green foliage inside while purifying your air! They are quite slow-growing, so they can stay in the same pot for long periods of time. Perfect for the lazy plant parent!
Let’s take a step back in time and look at the Bamboo Palm, which was a favourite in Victorian-era houses. Imagine if a palm and bamboo had a love child – this is what you’d get, which we love! It prefers to be in an indoor position with bright, warm, indirect sunlight and can grow to a whopping 3 meters tall! It likes moist, well draining soil.
Toxins removed: benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene
English Ivy
Ladies and Gents, we have a winner! The Hedra English Ivy was voted one of the best air purifier indoor houseplants by NASA. Commonly seen growing outdoors, English Ivy also looks great indoors in hanging baskets or small pots, looking elegant whilst purifying your air at the same time! We love a multi-tasker. They’re super easy to propagate too!
Toxins removed: benzene, formaldehyde, xylene and toluene.
Spider Plant
If you have some questionable plant care history that you would prefer to not discuss when it comes to indoor plants and needs something easy to start new (it’s okay, we won’t judge) – then the Spider Plant is a perfect choice for plant newbies or the recently reformed! They thrive in indirect light and can handle lots of conditions. Its leaves hang gracefully down, producing little white clusters of flowers on long stems. Watch these little fellows as they eventually turn into little baby spider plants!
Boston Ferns! Easy to grow, beautiful fronds and did you know they’re also a toxin remover too! These bad boys can get up to 1m in height and width when they are doing their best – crazy right?! To achieve this, keep them away from direct sunlight and keep the soil moist. To keep them even happier, they love a good misting to create some humidity.
Toxins removed: Mainly formaldehyde but also filters out toxins like ammonia, benzene and xylene
Dracaena
The Dracaena looks like a mini tree or palm and works beautifully as a tall feature plant! Bring the outdoors in, we say! It is a high performing air filter that is hardy and quite tolerant to most common plant diseases. However, they do have one weak spot (like most of us right?) and are not a fan of overwatering as it can cause root rot.
They prefer indirect sunlight but never direct sunlight!
Toxins removed: Trichloroethylene, benzene, xylene and toluene
Rubber Plant
Last but certainly not least! The robust Rubber Plant! A lover of bright, indirect light so keeps it away from those Northern and Western windows! Grow in a pot indoors and water weekly in Summer or every 2 weeks in Winter. While it is not top of the list for air purifiers, it is certainly one of the most aesthetic looking ones that everyone should have regardless!
Toxins removed: xylene, benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene
Snake Plant/Mother-in-Law’s Tongue
Mother-in-Law’s Tongue or Snake Plant produces upright sword-shaped leaves that are deep green, thick, succulent and patterned with bands of cream, yellow.
They are sensitive to cold so can only be grown outdoors in warmer climates where they will grow in full or part sun and tolerate heat and neglect. The interesting foliage makes them useful as feature plants, they are often grown in low water and low maintenance gardens, in pots along borders and edges.
In cooler climates, they can be grown indoors either alone or with other indoor plants with contrasting foliage. They prefer bright indirect sunlight but will tolerate lower light levels.
Toxins removed: formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, benzene and xylene.
Philodendron
Philodendron care is easy because if you watch for the signals, the plant will tell you exactly what it needs. Even inexperienced houseplant owners will have no trouble growing philodendron plants because the plants adapt readily to conditions inside the home. This makes learning how to care for a philodendron incredibly simple. There are so many beautiful varieties to choose from!
Now while we know we’ve taught you a lot about air-purifying plants, the one thing we hope you take away from this is that you should buy yourself a new indoor plant! – Treat yo’ self! – and if anyone asks, it’s for the good of Earth, you know, purifying the air and all! 😉
Here are some more articles you may like:
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All over the city, our giant trees are putting on a display of reds, oranges and yellows, their spent leaves colouring the footpaths and streets. Golden Elms and Ash are shining gold beacons, Scarlet Oaks and Maples produce vibrant lipstick reds and Japanese Maples start to really shine with varying colours, all on a single tree. This time of year is not only about colourful foliage. Camellia’s are beginning to flower, Native Violets are covered with upright purple flowers that the bees adore, Salvia’s and Gazania are continuing their summer flower display along with newly budding flowers of Pimeleas, Daisies and Alyssum.
If your azalea shrub is already infested with these azalea leaf pests, you can try one of two methods for getting rid of them. The first is chemical controls and the other is organic control. Chemical control involves using insecticidal soaps (some of which are organic). Most off-the-shelf insecticides will effectively kill azalea lace bugs. For organic control of these azalea insects, you can try several methods. The first method to try is to spray the plant down with a sprayer on the hose. This can knock the pests of the plant and disorient them enough to prevent re-infestation. • Codling Moth attacks Apples and Pears. The moth lays its eggs on leaves and immature fruit as flowering finishes. The hatching caterpillars then burrow into the fruit and eat it from the inside. Yates Success Ultra is a good product to control these. You can also use organic control methods such as neem oil or even physical barriers such as fruit bags. Welcoming beneficial insects in your garden will also help with the control of codling moths. 
